tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53885640141743449042024-03-06T05:23:36.486+01:00www.DutchBikeBits.comwww.DutchBikeBits.com Proven accessories and parts for every cyclistDavid Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.comBlogger22125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-49404977508957534132014-08-21T21:56:00.001+02:002020-05-11T14:14:32.665+02:00The stealth "near-fixie". An efficient bicycle for everyday use<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifSVrsLrQJkexUO-goBxcn9M7QebMeZdzpwlkzxuxIv96idwFXTLnjShBEdZMuIfR4sgYpDCdwXVud5NMgWXaS2UPKDwKGWFYlgPKJ4IQTQXUBLOgYTAVemtKWG3I5Fy3OeproBVRhwrlE/s1600/37751-500x500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifSVrsLrQJkexUO-goBxcn9M7QebMeZdzpwlkzxuxIv96idwFXTLnjShBEdZMuIfR4sgYpDCdwXVud5NMgWXaS2UPKDwKGWFYlgPKJ4IQTQXUBLOgYTAVemtKWG3I5Fy3OeproBVRhwrlE/s1600/37751-500x500.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51&product_id=300" target="_blank">Shimano Nexus hub gear</a>. Really<br />
very good, but not always what you<br />
want. A wide range of gears comes<br />
with a noticeable drop in efficiency.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Very soon after we came to the Netherlands I bought a fairly well used second hand town bike for getting about in the city. This bike had a seven speed Shimano Nexus hub gear. It's really a very nice gearing system, but I've never been entirely happy with the inherent inefficiency of multi-speed hubs.<br />
<br />
After a couple of years it developed some problems and I "upgraded" to a three speed Sturmey Archer gear. Sturmey Archer three speeds are far more efficient than hub gears which have a greater number of gears. This is especially so in the middle gear which is a direct gear like a single speed bike. I set the gearing ratio so that I almost always used this middle gear. Sturmey Archer three speeds are extremely reliable, but this part was more than 30 years old and came with an unknown history. When it started eating its internals about a year ago I had to find something else quickly.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUyVYXbX5vK3cfYSCfFA5yKjFAcKBEQAFhz1FqiToCKCUNhMwvfiNyHIpyROYUcVRUONBwANP5KddhLOg48FpOf1E5a2wKojroEDKDmimmrhQd7FTQLI9UL5encOZPHN2wJH8kI05EpdA/s1600/DSCF1478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUyVYXbX5vK3cfYSCfFA5yKjFAcKBEQAFhz1FqiToCKCUNhMwvfiNyHIpyROYUcVRUONBwANP5KddhLOg48FpOf1E5a2wKojroEDKDmimmrhQd7FTQLI9UL5encOZPHN2wJH8kI05EpdA/s1600/DSCF1478.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of my daughters' bikes. Very<br />
traditional shape. Single speed,<br />
reliable, light and efficient.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Enter the single speed hub</b><br />
My daughters both ride traditional Dutch single-speed sit up and beg bikes with back-pedal brakes. A couple of years ago, one of my daughters broke several spokes in the rear wheel when a friend jumped onto the back of her bike and I fitted <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=78&product_id=322" target="_blank">a new wheel</a> for her. It was her broken rear wheel that caught my eye when I was in a hurry to fix my bike - I quickly rebuilt the wheel and used it to replace the three speed. The shifter and brake lever stayed on the handlebars of my bike as this was to be a temporary measure.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7A1cH5gRDY3an4UOzPgGESPk3xvbSxSLLZs-pQ6WTRs5YpSafcqKVQ6NRP8y9TiGSOIAkOIdE8G-T4zdXilG4tR6mk4VvBzrOlbQMhzrF6gcnxy2DfvMJmKtVvSHa2hHWHnaTf2p8oukn/s1600/103_5213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7A1cH5gRDY3an4UOzPgGESPk3xvbSxSLLZs-pQ6WTRs5YpSafcqKVQ6NRP8y9TiGSOIAkOIdE8G-T4zdXilG4tR6mk4VvBzrOlbQMhzrF6gcnxy2DfvMJmKtVvSHa2hHWHnaTf2p8oukn/s1600/103_5213.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51&product_id=126" target="_blank">KMC Z1 narrow chain</a>. A 3/2nd<br />
inch chain for single speed use.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A year later I found I was still riding single-speed with no particular desire to change. When it became obvious a couple of weeks ago that the chain and other parts of the transmission were far too tired to continue, I decided to make the shift to single-speed permanent. There were also several other parts which needed changing due to wear so I collected together all the parts and changed them this week.<br />
<br />
A worn 36 tooth front chainring was replaced by <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51&product_id=340" target="_blank">a new 38 tooth chainring</a>, a new <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51&product_id=191" target="_blank">16 tooth sprocket</a> was fitted on the back and a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51&product_id=126" target="_blank">specially designed single speed 3/32nd chain</a> from KMC linked these two together. The existing <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=43&product_id=75" target="_blank">chaincase</a> just needed a clean before it could protect the other new parts.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ_IOrH1mSELd4ADRfTBN0Eotd6CxgeXRe9k6l0aCcXwCfrIgDOpnDEK_b18l0N1BDyoRylCyKq1BKhojIosnYreLcmVWyHJ6kPz91nIx7FwaMDRoL6d_hSGmjmATImN0bCJaYklHm-Tgt/s1600/103_5216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ_IOrH1mSELd4ADRfTBN0Eotd6CxgeXRe9k6l0aCcXwCfrIgDOpnDEK_b18l0N1BDyoRylCyKq1BKhojIosnYreLcmVWyHJ6kPz91nIx7FwaMDRoL6d_hSGmjmATImN0bCJaYklHm-Tgt/s1600/103_5216.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A new pair of <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=45&product_id=81" target="_blank">my favourite flat pedals</a>.<br />
Not only was the plastic worn on the<br />
old ones, I'd also worn well into the<br />
metal ball bearing enclosures.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The pedals were also extremely worn. In many thousands of kilometres of riding, not only had the plastic parts won completely flat but I'd also worn right through the metalwork of one of the pedals to the extent that it was letting rainwater into the ball bearings. The old pedals still worked very well, but I replaced them anyway with an identical set of <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=45&product_id=81" target="_blank">my favourite type of flat pedal</a>.<br />
<br />
At this point I also finally removed the extra brake lever and the gear lever which I've not been using for the last year and replaced my old <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=49" target="_blank">bell</a> with a type which is built into the handlebar grip. As a result, my handlebars are now very uncluttered.<br />
<br />
The bike is now very simple and it's somewhat lighter than it was too. It rides really nicely with almost no noise at all.<br />
<br />
A 38 tooth front chainring and 16 teeth at the back result in a gear ratio of around 64 inches. This is calculated as 38/16*27 inch approximate wheel diameter. It's equivalent to about 5.1 metres development (64 * pi / 39). This means that a cadence between 70 and 80 revolutions per minute results in a cruising speed between 20 and 25 km/h: a reasonable speed in town.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBGz5ZJOvrq8KhrRa0FtPP02uFCm-srkxMDrY4O50NyB_KA-V1m43c3rJ11e3DeB4vAdlG_aDkUoluzGkIjwxO5hI-aA59vE2k3yMf4ahnbeeJclk5msgUWJHM1mk2mbSvJD9s4iDqCavD/s1600/103_5217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBGz5ZJOvrq8KhrRa0FtPP02uFCm-srkxMDrY4O50NyB_KA-V1m43c3rJ11e3DeB4vAdlG_aDkUoluzGkIjwxO5hI-aA59vE2k3yMf4ahnbeeJclk5msgUWJHM1mk2mbSvJD9s4iDqCavD/s1600/103_5217.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old bike is rideable again. Just one gear now, but having adjusted the size of the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51&product_id=191" target="_blank">rear sprocket</a> and the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51&product_id=340" target="_blank">chainring</a> it's <i>the right gear for me</i>. That's important. This is an efficient and practical bicycle for everyday use, optimised for me. The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=70" target="_blank">saddle</a> looks slightly sad, but it's still got some life in it.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Front brake</b><br />
I recommend always having a front <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=39" target="_blank">brake</a> on any single speed bike even if your local laws allow doing otherwise. My front wheel is unchanged from when I bought the bike and includes a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=298" target="_blank">Shimano roller-brake</a>. <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=258" target="_blank">Sturmey Archer hub brakes</a> are perhaps a better choice due to having no drag at all when not in use. Due to the workings being entirely enclosed, hub brakes like these have a huge advantage in reliability over both brakes which operate on the rim and also disk brakes. In six years and many thousands of kilometres of riding in all weathers, I've not even had to adjust the cable on this front brake.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwpq34a3UkaFDZQcTlUX0IqNK57_Znkb_Sp4lAcBl23BWivQPQvlt7FnFdvOSTVq1jJXpEsRY2bShN9zenOwRG20B1BlkqH3a4uERTyX7wdIL3mfMImcd4cYsUshVyKLtljmvrP4LVtNIG/s1600/100_6763-500x500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwpq34a3UkaFDZQcTlUX0IqNK57_Znkb_Sp4lAcBl23BWivQPQvlt7FnFdvOSTVq1jJXpEsRY2bShN9zenOwRG20B1BlkqH3a4uERTyX7wdIL3mfMImcd4cYsUshVyKLtljmvrP4LVtNIG/s1600/100_6763-500x500.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=49" target="_blank">AXA Defender lock</a>. Secure. Permanent<br />
fixture to almost any bike. Can be used<br />
with additional chains and cables</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Other convenience features</b><br />
My bike also has <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/manufacturer&manufacturer_id=13" target="_blank">a B&M front light</a> running from <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40&product_id=65" target="_blank">a Nordlicht dynamo</a>, a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=70" target="_blank">very comfortable saddle</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=87" target="_blank">North-Road handlebars</a> (IMO the most comfortable handlebars for upright bikes) and a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=49&product_id=117" target="_blank">bell built into the left handlebar grip</a>. It's even fitted with <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=43&product_id=76" target="_blank">coat guards</a>, which again have no influence whatsoever on the performance of the bike, but reduce the chance of long coats being caught in the wheels.<br />
<br />
The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=49" target="_blank">permanently mounted lock</a> means I can leave it anywhere while the anonymous appearance makes it more likely that it'll be where I left it when I come back - a good thing for a bike which is often to be parked in the city.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Why call it "a near fixie" ?</b><br />
Why do I refer to the bike I have now as a "near fixie" ? It divides the line between what people think of as a heavy utility bike and what is thought of as a light fixed wheel bike.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fR7GlxZwYghlU5nV6GeYtMowMd6NPx1zl11UfPqF4Jvn3h_zCVxce4XVxyGtm2YZGNhRjmRUnXNLY_xKFRxfVzGb_dr0x7MrKlVpHnV01Ev0ansDvz62e-4_tO4espzbu6RDoFUg1aSN/s1600/dscf2576.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="123" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fR7GlxZwYghlU5nV6GeYtMowMd6NPx1zl11UfPqF4Jvn3h_zCVxce4XVxyGtm2YZGNhRjmRUnXNLY_xKFRxfVzGb_dr0x7MrKlVpHnV01Ev0ansDvz62e-4_tO4espzbu6RDoFUg1aSN/s1600/dscf2576.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My old <a href="http://hembrow.eu/personal/holdsworth.html" target="_blank">Holdsworth</a> fixie. Built in 1948.<br />
Really a nice bike to ride. Hope the<br />
new owner is still enjoying it.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I <a href="http://hembrow.eu/personal/holdsworth.html" target="_blank">used to have a fixed wheel bike</a>, but I sold it eight years ago before we emigrated. My fixie had an 82 inch gear making it suitable for riding quickly through the countryside, but that wasn't suitable for collecting shopping in the town. It was nice, but for longer rides I had a <a href="http://hembrow.eu/personal/speedross.html" target="_blank">faster and more comfortable</a> bike so the fixie didn't get much use.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/38828-500x500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/38828-500x500.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=45&product_id=82" target="_blank">Shimano PDM-324</a> pedals are a good<br />
choice for people new to SPDs or if one<br />
one bike is used for several purposes<br />
as they offer a choice of SPD or flat.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The attractive thing about fixies is the feeling of efficiency. Each turn of the pedals pushes you forwards. There's nothing "in the way". They're also very light. However, the downside with most fixies is that they have no luggage capacity, no mudguards, no chainguard, so they make a mess of your clothes, especially if it rains, the chain wears quickly due to being exposed to the elements, and they are not very practical bikes for everyday use. What's more, you must never let your feet fall off the pedals with a fixed wheel bike as this can lead to a loss of control and a crash. I always used <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=45" target="_blank">clipless pedals</a> and therefore had to wear dedicated shoes with my fixie.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/41594-500x500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/41594-500x500.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nothing is more puncture proof than<br />
the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=62" target="_blank">Schwalbe Marathon Plus</a>. The<br />
wider sizes don't roll badly either.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On the other hand, the wonderful thing about Dutch everyday bicycles is that they're clean in use. Not only do you stay clean but the important parts of the bike stay clean too so they last longer. Dutch town bikes also have <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=41_59" target="_blank">puncture proof tyres</a>, a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=49" target="_blank">permanently mounted lock</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=40_69" target="_blank">dynamo lighting</a>, and <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=62" target="_blank">panniers or baskets</a> to carry luggage (much better than having to carry an uncomfortable rucksack). These complete the picture of the perfect everyday use bicycle. What's more, you can of course wear anything when riding a Dutch style bike. I still use clipless pedals and special shoes on the bikes that I use for fast and long distance journeys, but they're not what I want for shorter journeys in town.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx4lM-PDLWHmN1MTHeyPGEXumjHOUI33voZj7gfjPNtiEaUg55BJHolreiYEq3CYkWJuPNZOAJsJ5-fa-T15GtzV2SAWUliBSwPQ07B7xLPKrk0sfYVUUuQp2vkIM9iKDqF0rKYJCSg7Bh/s1600/105_5220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx4lM-PDLWHmN1MTHeyPGEXumjHOUI33voZj7gfjPNtiEaUg55BJHolreiYEq3CYkWJuPNZOAJsJ5-fa-T15GtzV2SAWUliBSwPQ07B7xLPKrk0sfYVUUuQp2vkIM9iKDqF0rKYJCSg7Bh/s1600/105_5220.JPG" width="158" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Think a chaincase is an odd<br />
thing on a fixie? Mike Burrows<br />
built a track bike with a carbon<br />
fibre structural chaincase !<br />
Great book too (you can get it<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0966979524/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=0966979524&linkCode=as2&tag=davihemb-20&linkId=2AGHMFBOEL4QOYEP" target="_blank">from Amazon</a>. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKYOJSG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00EKYOJSG&linkCode=as2&tag=davihemb-20&linkId=JZHRKXY4EERRLPYO" target="_blank">2nd edition</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
My "near fixie" is in effect a hybrid these two ideas.<br />
<br />
Of course the bike isn't really a fixie at all because I've used <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=78&product_id=322" target="_blank">a back-pedal brake</a> rather than a true fixed wheel. However this gives the same efficiency as a real fixed wheel bike: the energy put into pushing the pedals goes directly to the rear wheel. The only difference is that coasting is possible and what happens when you want to slow down. Using a back-pedal brake brings the advantage that it's safe to use <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=45&product_id=81" target="_blank">flat pedals</a> and therefore I can wear any shoes that I want to. Because the chain is enclosed in <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=43&product_id=75" target="_blank">a chaincase</a> it does not get dirty and wear out so quickly as it would exposed. This helps efficiency because a dirty chain wastes a lot of energy. It also helps to keep me clean when riding.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=43&product_id=74" target="_blank">Mudguards</a> are also required to keep me clean and dry. Reliable <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=41_59" target="_blank">tyres</a> which may not look "fast" actually have quite low rolling resistance when pumped up hard. In any case they're infinitely faster than any other tyre with a puncture.<br />
<br />
<b>End result</b><br />
The end result is a very efficient and practical bike. It has all the practicality of any Dutch town bike combined with the efficiency of any bike on which the transmission has been stripped down to the basics.<br />
<br />
Of course I could have just asked the opinion of my daughters. They're amongst the millions of people who have been riding efficient bikes like this for many years. Or I could have looked back to my youth. I had a single speed back-pedal bike as a child and I went everywhere on it.<br />
<br />
It's a myth that utility bikes are inherently inefficient and slow. They can be, but there is no reason for this to be case so long as the drive-chain is efficient, they are set up for the rider, they are well maintained, and the tyres are pumped up hard.<br />
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="efficiency"></a>
<b>Update - efficiency of different gearing options</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2umHgp7ZcqsSTrFXxaIk6365d2FoU9tZQmsBk8ienokOShqTuwBc5A3jkFVgJ4KGLjNLH3OiMZJ7irFuMV3iv2AZvFprInAmKAVQZ2Z_IGb-7OpVxcKUraRKSxQgBKA6Kl89prjJTqLMk/s1600/08.gross.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="900" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2umHgp7ZcqsSTrFXxaIk6365d2FoU9tZQmsBk8ienokOShqTuwBc5A3jkFVgJ4KGLjNLH3OiMZJ7irFuMV3iv2AZvFprInAmKAVQZ2Z_IGb-7OpVxcKUraRKSxQgBKA6Kl89prjJTqLMk/s400/08.gross.png" width="400" /></a>A German website <a href="http://fahrradzukunft.de/17/wirkungsgradmessungen-an-nabenschaltungen-2/" target="_blank">measured the efficiency</a> of several different bicycle gearing options.<br />
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The thin lines show 50 W through the different gears while thick lines show 200 W. These are roughly equivalent to average power outputs by people riding relatively slowly around town vs. those riding at speed through the countryside.<br />
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All of the gearing options are less efficient at lower powers. However the single speed arrangement (pink - as I have on my town bike above) is highly efficient at all power inputs, while all other options are worse. A derailleur (orange shows chain tensioner) is the only multiple speed setup with consistently similar efficiency to single-speed, thought the Rohloff Speedhub comes commendably close and achieves slightly higher efficiency for one ratio. For practical use, derailleurs have the problem of being exposed to the weather, and this results in rapidly reducing efficiency due to fouling of the chain.<br />
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The Shimano eight and 11 speed hubs and the the NuVinci continuously variable gear are also tested. Of these, the NuVinci is easily the least efficient tested. At best, with a strong rider, only 85% of the energy used to push the pedals makes it as far as the rear wheel and pushes the rider along. In some gearing ratios with less strong riders less than 80% of the energy that the rider uses to push on the pedals drives the bike along. The rest warms up the hub. I don't think that people with less strength benefit at all from having up to a quarter of their effort turned into warming the hub up rather than pushing them forwards. The other hub gears gain a little efficiency with a stronger rider, but the NuVinci does not. It's relentlessly inefficient at all ratios and for all riders. An awful component. A crime against cycling. Now we know why the company who makes these things has been so reluctant to release actual performance figures.<br />
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David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-18088167772159835512013-10-07T01:00:00.002+02:002017-10-16T15:01:49.536+02:00Installing dynamo lights on my own touring bike<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhceimV5KSdwuyBySO0vuXpXTLt8IjWbKYaQUrIXs_3z946pmYKAW_XvGVBw5lDslgSniSyzlGN7K_fKcyS3tk948ZIqkY6xCDPwoty07i-qxEvJXkVcwXfk2TXcsIhbmx0PxXTRBh6NnN4/s1600/110_3241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhceimV5KSdwuyBySO0vuXpXTLt8IjWbKYaQUrIXs_3z946pmYKAW_XvGVBw5lDslgSniSyzlGN7K_fKcyS3tk948ZIqkY6xCDPwoty07i-qxEvJXkVcwXfk2TXcsIhbmx0PxXTRBh6NnN4/s320/110_3241.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=65" target="_blank">Nordlicht dynamo</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=169" target="_blank">60 lux Philips headlight</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=230" target="_blank">Philips rear light</a><br />
and a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=123" target="_blank">V-brake boss bracket</a> for mounting the dynamo.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In our webshop, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/" target="_blank">DutchBikeBits.com</a>, we sell a wide range of dynamo lighting because this is the type of lighting that we like to use on our own bikes.<br />
<br />
In this blog post I install a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=65" target="_blank">Nordlicht Dynamo</a> and a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=169" target="_blank">60 lux Philips headlight</a> as well as the battery version of <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=230" target="_blank">the excellent Philips rear light</a> on my own touring bike.<br />
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The Philips headlight is one of the very best dynamo headlights available. It has one of the best beam shapes, wide and very bright but with a cut-off at the top to avoid dazzling oncoming cyclists.<br />
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We recommend powering the Philips headlight with a Nordlicht dynamo - the best bottle dynamo ever made - in order to create a very effective dynamo lighting system which is easy to fit to an existing bicycle.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlVSzdFdOwnjYzoQntmz7NdKNhy-fv0THxAblWu0AEbegOe0kESOAD4nSTnzurFu2rYv-Be3QGkLyOSMFLUYCKA5nmze9CQ1LbAj1e4w8a5dq_x8kbrwHWdADHQaqGh4kf3uDLG1bobG-W/s1600/110_3243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="117" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlVSzdFdOwnjYzoQntmz7NdKNhy-fv0THxAblWu0AEbegOe0kESOAD4nSTnzurFu2rYv-Be3QGkLyOSMFLUYCKA5nmze9CQ1LbAj1e4w8a5dq_x8kbrwHWdADHQaqGh4kf3uDLG1bobG-W/s200/110_3243.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My old rear light on the left vs. the<br />
Philips on the right. Probably the most<br />
effective bicycle rear light anywhere !</td></tr>
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At the time of writing, Philips were supplying free spoke reflectors with the headlight and rear light combination. Unfortunately those are no longer available. This offer was available only if you chose the battery powered version of the rear light. I now recommend the dynamo version of the light instead.<br />
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These front and rear lights are truly excellent. A notable upgrade from the lights I was using before, both front and back.<br />
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<b>Installing on my own touring bike</b><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_d80QXrg1DPKAsepKX_DTbFJlA0M1qWeIDHjwREp3sYrbeGrKsJfx_MDY56vGfF0_4POJODj1fKXOwFCRu54Kuk2zrfCJHfjl78g3WjYaS2SObzs5Lapyg2zIySs6QC0YWPrEZLaNe_R8/s1600/110_3253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_d80QXrg1DPKAsepKX_DTbFJlA0M1qWeIDHjwREp3sYrbeGrKsJfx_MDY56vGfF0_4POJODj1fKXOwFCRu54Kuk2zrfCJHfjl78g3WjYaS2SObzs5Lapyg2zIySs6QC0YWPrEZLaNe_R8/s200/110_3253.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I first mounted the dynamo using the<br />
<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=123" target="_blank">V-brake racket</a></td></tr>
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In addition to the dynamo and light the only other part that I needed was a bracket to mount the dynamo. We sell three different dynamo brackets, one for <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=121" target="_blank">front wheel mounting</a> (off the fork), one for <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=122" target="_blank">rear wheel mounting</a> (off the seat stay) and one for mounting <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=123" target="_blank">next to a V-brake boss</a>. I chose for the latter.<br />
<br />
The first part that I mounted was the dynamo. This required removing the bolt holding the left half of the V-brake on the front of my bike and reinserting the bolt with the bracket in place. It's an easy job, taking all of five minutes, but this of course has to be done with some care. If you are not confident about adjusting components around your brakes safely, please do not touch them but ask someone else to do the job for you. Please read the <a href="http://blog.dutchbikebits.com/2012/01/selecting-and-installing-dynamo.html#bottledynamosetup">guide to setting up a bottle dynamo</a> from a previous blog post.<br />
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="headlight"></a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6EWD1p4Xdb-szgNHtuuThCIbtXTpiXCDCYiUoVUgcAvzORPTxREZEGcGyj_0OuRy4YHhTg-sGIvoHXHyRgPzXTvB6s9hWnjL2FU9OV055tOpcO08UUnwzGG88fcrh8EVciA6PZroAHtWC/s1600/110_3251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6EWD1p4Xdb-szgNHtuuThCIbtXTpiXCDCYiUoVUgcAvzORPTxREZEGcGyj_0OuRy4YHhTg-sGIvoHXHyRgPzXTvB6s9hWnjL2FU9OV055tOpcO08UUnwzGG88fcrh8EVciA6PZroAHtWC/s320/110_3251.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
After installing the dynamo I installed the front light. For most upright touring bikes this requires nothing more than removing the bolt which holds the front mudguard in place and using it to attach both the mudguard and the included bracket for the light. However on my short wheelbase recumbent bike there's no convenient place to attach a front light. I attached mine by removing the bracket from the light and re-fitting it backwards. It was then possible to use a single hose-clamp to attach the bracket to the front boom, as shown in this photo. I also twister some wire through the bracket so that it can't possibly fall from the bike even if the clamp became loose, but the hose-clamp actually keeps it firmly in position anyway.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Q-055PhQK9-pG6CDzsTx17SrSd1XwliFZKviVjDRagHZJWcHHUSyYb54a-Nrh39M0dsaGOZ_xkbR9CaXalQehFXeTLWMnOxaymxfCG_xxddVu2xj2_8mfFc2W-auUlEOj21V_YynW2tK/s1600/110_3249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Q-055PhQK9-pG6CDzsTx17SrSd1XwliFZKviVjDRagHZJWcHHUSyYb54a-Nrh39M0dsaGOZ_xkbR9CaXalQehFXeTLWMnOxaymxfCG_xxddVu2xj2_8mfFc2W-auUlEOj21V_YynW2tK/s200/110_3249.JPG" width="150" /></a>The long wire from the front light reaches to the two connectors on the bottom of the dynamo. Cable ties should be used to keep the cable attached to the frame so that it cannot be damaged. If the light does not initially work, swap the two wires at the dynamo. It's possible for there to be a short circuit through the frame if they are connected the wrong way around. It's also important to have the switch on top of the light in the ON position.<br />
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The rear light is simply bolted onto the rear rack in the same way as the previous lock had been mounted. This light is bright even in daytime.<br />
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The Philips rear light is visible from a remarkably wide 320 degree angle so greatly increases the visibility of a cyclist from the side as well as from the rear. Also, because the light is spread over a large "race-track" shaped area, this gives a better impression of distance and is more pleasant to ride behind than are many single point LED rear lights.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgijRYma9cZjxWw8UmhfUQn341qvlzsuepUFeM4o_xeQBmoF06gVOJZKRC0DtONUVHMq_DeRbkZ8DpWvog21sc5Ao2qKpRvR9ufEJSEvODJYhd7H4C795k995wGmZ3jAWwXpgfH-d-pi6xQ/s1600/110_3259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgijRYma9cZjxWw8UmhfUQn341qvlzsuepUFeM4o_xeQBmoF06gVOJZKRC0DtONUVHMq_DeRbkZ8DpWvog21sc5Ao2qKpRvR9ufEJSEvODJYhd7H4C795k995wGmZ3jAWwXpgfH-d-pi6xQ/s200/110_3259.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My touring bike for <a href="http://hembrow.eu/personal/pashleypdq.html" target="_blank">14 years</a>, now with<br />
better lights and reflectors than ever.</td></tr>
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Finally I clipped some of the 36 spoke reflectors onto the spokes of my bike. I used just six on the front wheel and six on the rear wheel, leaving enough to provide a similar treatment on two more bicycles. A flash photo shows how effective these are when illuminated by car headlights, but note also the circular reflector on the tyres. Most of <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=41_59" target="_blank">the tyres that we sell</a> include this reflector.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG2MrWsySu8i1w0nd6f-wfCTFH0DxGstrsYsmh70EesZC2HYYXAaWbBZXRpTm9YwVnMFyp8weR25qgOXD3AHRahKGCZ22SZ4zS42P0078j4MbgUNoDcLnBtCNFsZRDF1RLES2A8bIVo37f/s1600/110_3263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="147" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG2MrWsySu8i1w0nd6f-wfCTFH0DxGstrsYsmh70EesZC2HYYXAaWbBZXRpTm9YwVnMFyp8weR25qgOXD3AHRahKGCZ22SZ4zS42P0078j4MbgUNoDcLnBtCNFsZRDF1RLES2A8bIVo37f/s200/110_3263.JPG" width="200" /></a>
A large rectangular area of the road is lit extremely well by the Philips headlight but the shaped reflectors used cut the beam off at the top so that it does not waste light and does not dazzle oncoming cyclists. These parts combine to make a very effective lighting setup both in order both to see and to be be seen.<br />
<br />
<b>We don't sell the battery version of the Philips rear light</b><br />
Note that we don't sell the battery version of the Philips light. When the product was new, a small percentage of our customers for these lights found that theirs became full of rainwater and failed. Because this performance fell short of our quality standards we stopped selling the Philips battery rear lights. In fact, many models of battery lights are not 100% waterproof and can fail if they become saturated with water. We believe that if these lights are allowed to dry out should they become wet then not being entirely waterproof won't be an issue for most users, but we can't offer a guarantee. Rather than selling the lights we've therefore decided to give them as a gift to customers who also purchase a dynamo. By taking advantage of this offer you can put together a very high quality lighting setup for a very good price.<br />
<br />
Note that this issue does not affect the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=230">rear dynamo light</a> from Philips or their <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=169">excellent front lights</a>, both of which are weather resistant and guaranteed.<br />
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<div>
<b>2015 update: Philips lights are no longer available</b></div>
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Sadly, Philips withdrew from the bicycle light market. We still sell a wide range of other quality bicycle lights, both dynamo and battery powered. Please see our <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=40" target="_blank">full selection of bicycle lights</a><br />
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In particular, we now have 70 lux versions of both the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/lights/dynamo-lights/busch-und-muller-iq-cyo-dynamo-headlight" target="_blank">Busch und Muller IQ Cyo</a> and the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/lights/dynamo-lights/axa-luxx-70-plus-headlight-with-usb" target="_blank">AXA Luxx</a>, both of which are brighter than the Philips dynamo headlight which I describe above.
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-36735117493122360562013-05-31T12:12:00.000+02:002017-09-12T17:33:20.733+02:00All shipments start their journey on our cargo bike<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDbFlbNGWR2l5-2ngwOp-9JIakG6_HS0KLpMFnI9JwSSsvRfENkN6lJOMPxR_fq4_zVstch9LBsiM36CTOmmPQkP8gDgnpxz-MmtK57FprXcLzs6_8rBqV0A7i2SPJEjRsrz6tlqfusrEr/s1600/105_0169_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDbFlbNGWR2l5-2ngwOp-9JIakG6_HS0KLpMFnI9JwSSsvRfENkN6lJOMPxR_fq4_zVstch9LBsiM36CTOmmPQkP8gDgnpxz-MmtK57FprXcLzs6_8rBqV0A7i2SPJEjRsrz6tlqfusrEr/s640/105_0169_1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmrlmBxEmoUgG-W78mHVEi1UOkSsbe26DtfEVEvNcH-h7aattc0l-h18hKSgN2zj8PNDwDhtk7WcJuDSEu2SfbkenBlx7mkjMAcTaXquJx-2PCBrcLbLL_MqzrS_Z7dODXtnX7A5xSQAgV/s1600/121_7243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="800" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmrlmBxEmoUgG-W78mHVEi1UOkSsbe26DtfEVEvNcH-h7aattc0l-h18hKSgN2zj8PNDwDhtk7WcJuDSEu2SfbkenBlx7mkjMAcTaXquJx-2PCBrcLbLL_MqzrS_Z7dODXtnX7A5xSQAgV/s640/121_7243.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When we've even more parcels, we pull a <a href="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/trailers" target="_blank">trailer</a> behind the Xtracycle.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkO3I1JezEykFyv3UZH2zwylnQc1kHgKlQrBE-Cx8zJ2wJXZnMlpr3tURHIABdNiDN18i-WxUutxgnoqC8bRFihZpnOi_E0DhVMXLyeXvgkhZLsyCxWVNl8ZAYgfxD7VVFOq49yhfZSj0x/s1600/P4170004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkO3I1JezEykFyv3UZH2zwylnQc1kHgKlQrBE-Cx8zJ2wJXZnMlpr3tURHIABdNiDN18i-WxUutxgnoqC8bRFihZpnOi_E0DhVMXLyeXvgkhZLsyCxWVNl8ZAYgfxD7VVFOq49yhfZSj0x/s400/P4170004.JPG" width="246" /></a></div>
We've got happy customers in almost every country in the world, including so far afield as Australia and New Zealand, every state in the USA, Korea, Japan and China, as well as all across Europe.<br />
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However, every one of the deliveries starts off by bicycle. This sometimes means I find myself riding through the streets of Assen on a bike which is stacked up with a lot of parcels, as seen here.<br />
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<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/" target="_blank"><img src="https://dutchbikebits.com/image/240x90dbb.jpg" style="border: 0px; float: left;" /></a>
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<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/"><img src="https://dutchbikebits.com/image/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;" /></a></center>
David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-87069436943348354702012-12-06T10:17:00.000+01:002017-10-16T15:02:38.705+02:00Snow. What tyres to make it safe ?<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiZTb7dViWyF4YQIyqZIXa0DnQCIwUDrhViBR53DO5QVQC3hovmN2HtUZXKMPOiYqVOSU0LJcj25zF26QYyMDhNgYGIbmJkly68SFAX6mPBHew4d4g9j1ftWV6dDCH8f07ZHgn94x5IvK4/s1600/100_0955.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiZTb7dViWyF4YQIyqZIXa0DnQCIwUDrhViBR53DO5QVQC3hovmN2HtUZXKMPOiYqVOSU0LJcj25zF26QYyMDhNgYGIbmJkly68SFAX6mPBHew4d4g9j1ftWV6dDCH8f07ZHgn94x5IvK4/s640/100_0955.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Judy a hundred metres from our home. The cycle-path is clear of ice and snow</td></tr>
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We had four cm of snow last night, the first real snow of the winter. It looks wonderful, but snow can be dangerous for cyclists especially if it is not removed from the cycle-paths and if it becomes compacted.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/100_5632-500x500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/100_5632-500x500.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_60&product_id=63" target="_blank">Marathon Winter Studded Tyre</a></td></tr>
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Assen is quite good at clearing snow, but there can still be small patches of ice hidden underneath, especially later in winter. That's why the first thing I did this morning, before breakfast, was change the front tyre of Judy's bike for a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_60&product_id=63" target="_blank">Marathon Winter studded tyre</a>.<br />
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Fitting a studded tyre on the front wheel is the best insurance possible against a fall. Why only the front ? If the front wheel loses traction then a fall is almost inevitable and it is difficult to do anything to control such a fall. Falls due to the rear wheel slipping are much less common and much less scary.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL8SizuRCcmDUJvA8FOwQMFHZ2IF-tpHT2rAIeLK7FFTI3KS6sSpFcfIOCI_gSO6Myo7RKJyvyIeXjEMsRtEwJ8UgMM8fvKNuNyFwsKKDzsjqGTd0RZsVJbLQPZy6Ia4mq48711Nrs-SKN/s1600/PC060003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL8SizuRCcmDUJvA8FOwQMFHZ2IF-tpHT2rAIeLK7FFTI3KS6sSpFcfIOCI_gSO6Myo7RKJyvyIeXjEMsRtEwJ8UgMM8fvKNuNyFwsKKDzsjqGTd0RZsVJbLQPZy6Ia4mq48711Nrs-SKN/s320/PC060003.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parent with children cycling this morning. This cycle-path<br />
is clear, but you can't see it from this POV.</td></tr>
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You can see from the photo at the top that many other people had already cycled this way. People tend not to make so many trips for pleasure, but cycling for utility purposes doesn't reduce much in the winter in the Netherlands.<br />
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I'll cycle with parcels containing customers' orders from <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/" target="_blank">our bike parts shop</a> to the post office a bit later today and mine will not be the only bike there.
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We still have studded tyres in stock. Order them now and they'll be with you in a few days.<br />
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<b>Photos taken during the trip to the Post Office</b><br />
The temperature didn't reach above zero all day today, so the snow mostly stayed where it was, unless it was swept. Some photos below show conditions for cycling in Assen<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdrHI9whMVnfAN2tRSOquAhjHVPSfoSgA5FxtgdyFnQIS86vz0Fh4p1GW6FYmA_72j5z2BR7TKM11HeYoqdgqB7pRVuar2Jky8NAGFBR9Ua6Og0zjevx77KQ4djKoD3DepuRJ98h3eu6g/s1600/PC060002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdrHI9whMVnfAN2tRSOquAhjHVPSfoSgA5FxtgdyFnQIS86vz0Fh4p1GW6FYmA_72j5z2BR7TKM11HeYoqdgqB7pRVuar2Jky8NAGFBR9Ua6Og0zjevx77KQ4djKoD3DepuRJ98h3eu6g/s640/PC060002.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Safe conditions are also helpful for people with disabilities (written about <a href="http://www.aviewfromthecyclepath.com/search/label/disabilities" target="_blank">several times before</a> on the other blog)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAyfaZv9Wr3Yf89RgCbNQEP7lL5kBKv0Sd4IgcEJ3hqjdssVpNzLBmbQEqRffWqLbZDOmpmFAQo1ChprGNIGW0zlp9qjOrsViCs4ENwHCJapVTUkuzowJQtO_kr93bgBQcnqp7kPmuMU8/s1600/PC060004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAyfaZv9Wr3Yf89RgCbNQEP7lL5kBKv0Sd4IgcEJ3hqjdssVpNzLBmbQEqRffWqLbZDOmpmFAQo1ChprGNIGW0zlp9qjOrsViCs4ENwHCJapVTUkuzowJQtO_kr93bgBQcnqp7kPmuMU8/s640/PC060004.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plenty of bikes parked outside the popular Hema department store in <a href="http://www.aviewfromthecyclepath.com/2011/02/pedestrianization-without-adverse.html" target="_blank">a pedestrian zone</a>, and <a href="http://www.aviewfromthecyclepath.com/2011/02/who-cycles-in-netherlands.html" target="_blank">all ages</a> of people arriving and leaving by bike.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqVwsuYqCCF61SIinL_M2x22ZUyT1cjPRdKdpOWhE4SYoOxeDfNNgS1M9LDQ6mq8Hl20pxjtzwCA1tl8-wxvDYEnO9RUQpAZ259RtEUpAS7X0-8A2TX1C2rYqfosBNE5oF8LNXoPQKFN8/s1600/PC060007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="435" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqVwsuYqCCF61SIinL_M2x22ZUyT1cjPRdKdpOWhE4SYoOxeDfNNgS1M9LDQ6mq8Hl20pxjtzwCA1tl8-wxvDYEnO9RUQpAZ259RtEUpAS7X0-8A2TX1C2rYqfosBNE5oF8LNXoPQKFN8/s640/PC060007.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plenty of bikes at <a href="http://www.aviewfromthecyclepath.com/2008/09/monday-morning.html" target="_blank">an indoor shopping centre</a>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCntuMkEmq6CuRBoPd1MkvC4zpxV2KyS3e4Pt3XIPamAZo6wPBmgevzaoANOzc32gbwWJSaeWhEcFOIuAD73jCLhQbeNn4YdLLg0EZyD_fG7t9Bao-LtSGxuVK2fGdgkMuxauTxdlCodM/s1600/PC060009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="492" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCntuMkEmq6CuRBoPd1MkvC4zpxV2KyS3e4Pt3XIPamAZo6wPBmgevzaoANOzc32gbwWJSaeWhEcFOIuAD73jCLhQbeNn4YdLLg0EZyD_fG7t9Bao-LtSGxuVK2fGdgkMuxauTxdlCodM/s640/PC060009.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not many people use <a href="http://www.aviewfromthecyclepath.com/search/label/bakfietsen" target="_blank">bakfietsen</a> in Assen because conditions are safe for <a href="http://www.aviewfromthecyclepath.com/search/label/children" target="_blank">children to ride their own bikes</a>. However, some people do transport smaller children by bakfiets.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo_vaFs1IkDcc6cp4dlPMDPaezj4rBGUaD5svQ9sXHudUnPc1k1sBd0AaNB-QZ5OlckVPlYTVcidpuldNwhsygkDJS8hu2D2_kSNN0f5B0sbBvVe0Ka_6YMDTwjSwn3j2Ir7KxZmJp5tk/s1600/PC060012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="520" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo_vaFs1IkDcc6cp4dlPMDPaezj4rBGUaD5svQ9sXHudUnPc1k1sBd0AaNB-QZ5OlckVPlYTVcidpuldNwhsygkDJS8hu2D2_kSNN0f5B0sbBvVe0Ka_6YMDTwjSwn3j2Ir7KxZmJp5tk/s640/PC060012.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A small "traffic jam" on the cycle-path. Utility cycling holds up in the winter because due to the lack of ice on the cycle-paths it is nearly as easy to cycle on a day like this as it is in the summer.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv3BEHPWthGiv690mp4zHDafSePUHNL5V6OLF8XXANz8gvzgRi2H9EBPVjw_M3fRg9IL3ni6xhYNFQFPaiaNoWf6BE-rxE3NiPlSRptXtiTMhpiv5fffzEKZJSEMPNUblCHFpL-uansFs/s1600/PC060016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv3BEHPWthGiv690mp4zHDafSePUHNL5V6OLF8XXANz8gvzgRi2H9EBPVjw_M3fRg9IL3ni6xhYNFQFPaiaNoWf6BE-rxE3NiPlSRptXtiTMhpiv5fffzEKZJSEMPNUblCHFpL-uansFs/s200/PC060016.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Tread on a bicycle tyre normally serves no purpose other than for marketing. Asphalt or concrete surfaces are harder than rubber, and grip comes from the small imperfections in those surfaces forcing themselves into the rubber. However, when there is snow the tread forces itself into the snow and that is where grip comes from. That is why any treaded tyre is better for snow. However, when it is icy tread doesn't work because ice is too hard to be deformed by rubber. At this point, the studs on the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_60&product_id=63" target="_blank">Marathon Winter tyres</a> come into their own. They provide very small points of contact and pierce the ice. By doing so, you have far more grip than is possible with a rubber tyre. You can see both the tread marks in the snow and the black spots where the studs in my tyre pierced the ice underneath the snow, in the photo on the right.<br />
<small><small><br /></small></small><small><small>For two wheeled bicycles, the most critical tyre is the front tyre. However, with a velomobile or other three wheel recumbent with two wheels at the front the situation is reversed. With that type of bike it is absolutely critical that the rear wheel does not lose traction as that can result in the bike rotating to travel sideways and turning over. That's why I fit just one Marathon Winter tyre to the <i>rear</i> wheel of my Mango making it possible to continue going for <a href="http://www.aviewfromthecyclepath.com/2010/12/sunday-ride-through-snowy-landscape.html" target="_blank">recreational rides in the winter</a> in safety.</small></small>
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-82670792080604427462012-11-24T15:52:00.005+01:002017-10-16T15:04:03.223+02:00Two excellent new lights<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/62999-500x500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/62999-500x500.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
We've added two new front lights to our selection.<br />
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The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=295" target="_blank">Union UN-4268</a> has a very boring name, but it's a great light. 35 lux with a well shaped beam from a curved reflector at under €20 is pretty much unbeatable. But this light also has automatic switching dependent on light level (optional and intended for use with hub dynamos) and a powerful standlight which keeps it running for minutes after you've stopped.<br />
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The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=105" target="_blank">Basta Sprint</a> headlight remains less expensive, but it's got a lower output than this one and doesn't have the other advanced features.<br />
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<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/100_0939-500x500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/100_0939-500x500.JPG" height="288" width="320" /></a></div>
The second new light is completely different. The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_68&product_id=294" target="_blank">Philips Safe Ride Pedelec</a> is a top of the range light which combines the 80 lux output of the same company's <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=181" target="_blank">internally battery powered light</a> with the smaller size of their excellent <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=169" target="_blank">60 lux dynamo light</a> in a product designed specifically for use with pedelecs.<br />
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If you have a pedelec with less than impressive lights, there's no better upgrade on the market than this. The "motorcycle performance" comes from two high power LEDs and the best optics available which together reach 60 m without blinding oncoming cyclists or drivers.<br />
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Another thing that I like about this light is that the included mount can be used for other applications than pedelecs. In fact, it's perhaps the best possible light now available for mounting externally on velomobiles. Even the included bracket can be turned around to works for this application as you see in the attached photo.<br />
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Some DIY is needed to use the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_68&product_id=294" target="_blank">Philips Pedelec light</a>. You have to supply both power and switching. However, this is made easy by the incredibly wide range of input voltages on which it operates - anything between 6 and 48 volts DC will do, meaning that almost all bicycle power supplies either for motor assist or for velomobile lighting, whether they're based on NiMH, Lithium or even old-school Lead Acid batteries are suitable without any extra circuitry being required.<br />
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Finally, this is of course nothing to stop you running this light on a normal bicycle used for commuting or touring. The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=181" target="_blank">80 lux internal battery light</a> from Philips provides much the same performance, but you can achieve longer running times from the pedelec light if you provide a larger battery.<br />
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You can find both lights directly by following the links above, or by browsing <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/" target="_blank">in our webshop</a>.
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-66932396467896194042012-10-24T15:41:00.000+02:002020-04-14T08:41:46.708+02:00Upright and comfortable - Choosing a saddle for everyday riding<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/100_0536-500x500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/100_0536-500x500.JPG" width="192" /></a></div>
Mountain bikes and racing bikes have narrow saddles. The reason for this is that they are ridden in a bent forward position. Your weight is spread between the handlebars and your legs as well as on the saddle and you need a degree of freedom for comfort and to avoid chafing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFOBzOZKpjRq4DqZEM7hUld2gFzG_5V3viAVDekqGOt7aD4sT0hnbrmXZ5BTU4eM7Fp5Q827q6Y0sne6b2d3IBJiGFDj2PTQ__lx8RONAEUiuJr2dBPZAHpMH-4BhrtpU6S5t-XbxrATAh/s1600/100_0744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFOBzOZKpjRq4DqZEM7hUld2gFzG_5V3viAVDekqGOt7aD4sT0hnbrmXZ5BTU4eM7Fp5Q827q6Y0sne6b2d3IBJiGFDj2PTQ__lx8RONAEUiuJr2dBPZAHpMH-4BhrtpU6S5t-XbxrATAh/s320/100_0744.JPG" width="240" /></a>However, if you ride a more upright bicycle your weight is supported much less by the handlebars and more by the saddle and your legs are in a different position relative to the rest of your body. This is also true if you <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=48" target="_blank">convert a mountain bike</a> to achieve a more comfortable and more upright position. While changing <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=37" target="_blank">the stem and handlebars</a>, don't overlook the importance of changing the saddle.<br />
<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/39835-500x500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/39835-500x500.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
For a long time, we sold just one type of saddle at <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/" target="_blank">DutchBikeBits.com</a> - the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=70&product_id=182" target="_blank">Selle Royal 8261</a>, as shown on the left. This is a good everyday saddle for most people. It has a good shape, it's not overly wide, it has a little sprung suspension for extra comfort and we use it on almost all of our bicycles.<br />
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What's more, this saddle comes at a very reasonable cost, it lasts many years of everyday use and it has an advantage over some more expensive saddles that some people overlook - it's made of plastic.<br />
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What ? Plastic saddles are better ? If you want to ride your bike more than maintain then yes indeed they are. Plastic saddles do not need to be guarded against the weather as do leather saddles. If they get wet, you just brush off the wetness and they're dry again. Also, there is nothing to rub off and stain clothes, even when they are wet. That's why I find this to be the perfect saddle for riding everyday.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtJjLE_uYxo183O9PGJPjQXuyfvC7yEwc_5v0Kj1QYmq7EYflhYvrc1l5yRedVFpmN6LLWS6PmkxGHGm6mORB75ew_SzGv2Gr8PmuubVA2u3LP9ZuXyr7CBc1lWYizOq45UeKys3LbQGyc/s1600/100_0811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtJjLE_uYxo183O9PGJPjQXuyfvC7yEwc_5v0Kj1QYmq7EYflhYvrc1l5yRedVFpmN6LLWS6PmkxGHGm6mORB75ew_SzGv2Gr8PmuubVA2u3LP9ZuXyr7CBc1lWYizOq45UeKys3LbQGyc/s200/100_0811.JPG" width="200" /></a>However, I'm not everyone. My wife, Judy, was never quite completely happy with the 8261. After some time spent deliberating, she decided upon a Selle Royal RoyalGel women's saddle as shown on the right. This is a softer saddle with a more sculpted form than the 8261 and it is specifically designed to suit women who want to ride upright. Judy now rides daily with this saddle, which apart from the different design has the same features as the 8261 which I and the rest of our family use.<br />
<br />
We don't sell everything and we don't seek to sell everything. Rather, we sell those products which we believe in. It is only after Judy had ridden on her new saddle for several months that we took the decision to increase <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=70" target="_blank">the range of saddles that we sell</a>. The exact model of saddle that Judy chose was discontinued a year after this blog post was written. We now recommend <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=70&product_id=334" target="_blank">the Manhatten saddle</a> for a similar level of comfort, or the more unusual <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=70&product_id=333" target="_blank">nose-less Rok design</a>. But the best selling design, the most economical, and the one which I continue to happily use myself is <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/saddles/selle-royal-8261-classic-saddle" target="_blank">the standard version of the 8261</a>.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSgNLYb30wu-K6FmQOZ6hvayXwAAdFWDKisVMasi6LmGD-wb2-sETr0rCkkR-Qiu67z3GJBBhViVAqlJ6yvCvPGJREEi6PoeHGZxOutUTy6gyafETXcThfAfIEBCOlSA4bMnpYFtaXL5MN/s1600/100_0736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSgNLYb30wu-K6FmQOZ6hvayXwAAdFWDKisVMasi6LmGD-wb2-sETr0rCkkR-Qiu67z3GJBBhViVAqlJ6yvCvPGJREEi6PoeHGZxOutUTy6gyafETXcThfAfIEBCOlSA4bMnpYFtaXL5MN/s640/100_0736.JPG" width="560" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sitting upright, comfortable, smiling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
See also our <a href="http://blog.dutchbikebits.com/2009/01/anatomy-of-reliable-everyday-bicycle.html" target="_blank">anatomy of a reliable, everyday bicycle</a>.
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<center>
<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/"><img src="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;" /></a></center>
David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-8583688735699598892012-05-24T15:26:00.002+02:002017-10-30T15:12:37.571+01:00What size of wheel and tyre is used on my bicycle ? Choosing the right size of tyres for your bike can be difficult due to competing methods of measurement.<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvYiG7B45SZslufc3MTgSFxv-uq5mqL89kG-4uCb5B7O1dAI3L83Otluof0snrB2D5F0XgbXYWJvxgv7Qw6hLLSV90nUxMzFbrryuKKLnxLHeUJZr_n2S57UK1hzDxOn_gmdeE9XbfRAY0/s1600/100_9492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvYiG7B45SZslufc3MTgSFxv-uq5mqL89kG-4uCb5B7O1dAI3L83Otluof0snrB2D5F0XgbXYWJvxgv7Qw6hLLSV90nUxMzFbrryuKKLnxLHeUJZr_n2S57UK1hzDxOn_gmdeE9XbfRAY0/s200/100_9492.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">47-406: A "20 inch" tyre.<br />
47 mm wide, mounts on a 406 mm rim</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Bicycle tyres come in a bewildering array of different sizes. It's absolutely vital to buy the correct size for your bike.<br />
<br />
While tyres are mostly made of rubber, the most important dimension when fitting is that of the bead of the tyre, and this is reinforced either with steel wire (for most tyres) or with glass or other fibres (for folding tyres) so that the tyre won't stretch and come off the rim when fully inflated.<br />
<br />
For this reason, bicycle tyres do not stretch and even sizes which are very close in size are not interchangeable.<br />
<br />
<b>Old fashioned ways of labeling tyres</b><br />
In the past, wheel sizes were usually described as the outer diameter of the size of the wheel including a nominal inflated tyre. In countries which used imperial units these would be expressed as a size in inches (e.g. "26 inch" or "28 inch") while in metric countries the size was expressed in millimetres (e.g. 700 C or 650 A).<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdUaMQOmyGk8vAef7j6Mq4spVbSCdrRHtbAIrXK6_GsOv7cx7B4dapopGldi1BU1sxCA37g2we6FBFD4FDFv_wuJE8yZXkGPjtHOs7smpjAcvCrBZyZeuirtZmxG81vhn2CrT7935w0GlC/s1600/100_9494.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="161" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdUaMQOmyGk8vAef7j6Mq4spVbSCdrRHtbAIrXK6_GsOv7cx7B4dapopGldi1BU1sxCA37g2we6FBFD4FDFv_wuJE8yZXkGPjtHOs7smpjAcvCrBZyZeuirtZmxG81vhn2CrT7935w0GlC/s200/100_9494.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ETRTO 40-559 = 40 mm wide 559 mm<br />
diameter rim. Also labeled 26x1.50 but<br />
you are best off ignoring this old "size"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This system would work just fine if each size of wheel was described by a different number. However, that was not so. As an example, the "26 inch" wheel size used on traditional British bicycles is a lot larger than the "26 inch" wheel size used on traditional American bikes. British bikes were for many years imported to the USA, and when Mountain Bikes became popular, they brought the American wheel size to the UK. What's more, there are more "26 inch" wheel sizes than just these two.<br />
<br />
There are also two different sizes of "28 inch" wheel, one of which is larger and the other smaller than the "27 inch" size. "29 inch" wheeled mountain bikes actually use the same diameter rim as the smaller "28 inch" size, so these two use smaller wheels than "27 inch".<br />
<br />
The same problems arise with smaller wheels as well. The two most commonly used "16 inch" wheel sizes are both considerably smaller than 16 inches in diameter. The largest of the two measures just over 13.5 inches in diameter, while the smaller is nearly 2 inches smaller than this. There are also several different wheel sizes referred to "20 inch".<br />
<br />
The metric versions of these measurements also cause confusion. A 700 C wheel is not the same size as a 700 B wheel but it is the same as one of the "28 inch" sizes, even though it's neither 700 mm nor 28 inch in diameter.<br />
<br />
Inevitably, there is much confusion about wheel sizes.<br />
<br />
<b>The solution: ETRTO numbers</b><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7e075PzGWl80_7fOx8x3zWdaEiMSAapgHCNL5PgET-1bbrFWHyeGqQVzfsYbNxBaY0F9hw8yHmvXrs1t9qd6EQ_adV7VgZY8OL5Yz2-CjvZpMrx8v_u_YoUlyl_cqH7jjdAcNwOS4liSX/s1600/etrto.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="135" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7e075PzGWl80_7fOx8x3zWdaEiMSAapgHCNL5PgET-1bbrFWHyeGqQVzfsYbNxBaY0F9hw8yHmvXrs1t9qd6EQ_adV7VgZY8OL5Yz2-CjvZpMrx8v_u_YoUlyl_cqH7jjdAcNwOS4liSX/s320/etrto.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The most common size for Dutch town bikes and many touring<br />
bikes. A 622 mm diameter rim with a 37 mm wide tyre</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In 1964, the <a href="http://www.etrto.org/" target="_blank">European Tyre and Rim Technical Organisation</a> was formed. They're an organisation that few people have heard of, and I know little of what they've been doing for the last 50 years except that they've given cyclists a great gift in the form of a system for identifying tyre and wheel sizes which guarantees compatibility. This has been standardized internationally in the form of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_5775" target="_blank">ISO 5775</a>, but most people still refer to these figures as "ETRTO numbers".<br />
<br />
The "ETRTO number" consists of two numbers separated by a dash. The first gives the width of the tyre, while the second gives the diameter of the rim which it fits. For instance, 37-622 indicates that a tyre has a width of 37 mm and is to be mounted on a rim of 622 mm diameter. This is the most common size for Dutch town bikes, and is also a common size for touring bikes everywhere.<br />
<br />
<b>Buying a replacement tyre</b><br />
Before buying a replacement tyre, inner tube or wheel, first check the writing on the side of your existing tyre and find the ETRTO number. To help you find an exact match which will work on your bike, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=41" target="_blank">all the tyres and inner tube</a> as well as <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=78" target="_blank">the wheels</a> in <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/" target="_blank">our web shop</a> are listed with their available ETRTO sizes.<br />
<br />
You do not always have to buy the same width of tyre as you had before. While it is not a good idea to fit a very wide tyre onto a very narrow rim, nor a very narrow tyre onto a very wide rim, in principle any tyre of any width will fit on any rim which is the correct size. In practice we suggest not going too far from what the manufacturer of your bicycle fitted. For example, if you currently have 32 mm wide tyres, then fitting a 37 mm wide tyre instead will likely give a bit more comfort. However, make sure you have enough clearance in the frame and under mudguards for a larger tyre size.<br />
<br />
<b>Recommended tyres and sizes for different types of bikes</b><br />
Below we make some recommendations for some types of bikes. We supply a much wider range of tyres than this, so if you need a different size, please check <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=41" target="_blank">all of what we have</a>, and contact us if you need a size which isn't listed<br />
<br />
You should always make reference to the ETRTO number on the side of your existing tyres before buying any tyre. Please take our recommendation, but confirm that these are the exact tyres you want by checking your tyre size yourself before ordering. If you are changing the width of the tyre that you use, make sure you have a new width that will work on your rims and in your frame:
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<table border="1">
<thead>
<tr><th>Type of bike</th><th>Tyre size</th><th>Old size</th><th>Recommendation with link to where to buy</th></tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr><td>British Three Speed</td><td>37-590</td><td>26"</td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=62" target="_blank">Marathon Plus</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=71" target="_blank">Marathon</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=195" target="_blank">Delta Cruiser</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>New Dutch town bike</td><td>37-622</td><td>28x1 3/8</td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=71" target="_blank">Marathon</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=62" target="_blank">Marathon Plus</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=195" target="_blank">Delta Cruiser</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>"Old" Dutch town bike</td><td>40-635</td><td>28x1 1/2</td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=71" target="_blank">Marathon</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=62" target="_blank">Marathon Plus</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=195" target="_blank">Delta Cruiser</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Modern touring bike</td><td>28-622 to 37-622</td><td>28" / 700C</td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=62" target="_blank">Marathon Plus</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=71" target="_blank">Marathon</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=202" target="_blank">Marathon Supreme</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Racing bike</td><td>20-622 to 28-622</td><td>28" / 700C</td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_58&product_id=130" target="_blank">Durano / Durano S</a>, <a href="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/continental-contact-speed-tyre" target="_blank">Contact Speed</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_58&product_id=94" target="_blank">Grand Prix</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Old racing bike</td><td>20-630 to 32-630</td><td>27x1 1/4</td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=71" target="_blank">Marathon</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Mountain bike</td><td>47-559 to 55-559</td><td>26"</td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_58&product_id=101" target="_blank">Furious Fred</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=63" target="_blank">Marathon Winter</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=146" target="_blank">Big Apple</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Mountain bike used on road</td><td>32-559 to 50-559</td><td>26"</td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=146" target="_blank">Big Apple</a>, <a href="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/continental-contact-speed-tyre" target="_blank">Contact Speed</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_58&product_id=141" target="_blank">Kojak</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=71" target="_blank">Marathon</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=62" target="_blank">Marathon Plus</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>20" wheel folding bike</td><td>28-406 to 47-406</td><td>20"</td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_58&product_id=141" target="_blank">Kojak</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=71" target="_blank">Marathon</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=62" target="_blank">Marathon Plus</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>16" wheel folding bike</td><td>28-305 to 47-305</td><td>16"</td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=71" target="_blank">Marathon</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=62" target="_blank">Marathon Plus</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Brompton / Moulton</td><td>35-349</td><td>16"</td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=71" target="_blank">Marathon</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=62" target="_blank">Marathon Plus</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Kronan</td><td>54-584 or 47-622</td><td>26" / 28"</td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=144" target="_blank">Kronan tyres</a><br />
(Kronan men's and women's frames are different)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<b>Profile</b><br />
It is not possible for a bicycle tyre to "aquaplane" because speeds are too low, and pressures are too high. Therefore, a profile is not needed on bicycle tyres to increase grip in the wet.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_7oBXqon8i0sUihUqL_83SVVxHDsvc4K7EUMTLHp1iANApmhxgoDbgJbDd81tlWEzUj4xf3-2VglUXF3_czNSjaGDR0MwxyDk-YVZY6lFMhTKHqBIllxHxXyXGcpJ7EqcL3ju9WH1k97y/s1600/100_9496.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_7oBXqon8i0sUihUqL_83SVVxHDsvc4K7EUMTLHp1iANApmhxgoDbgJbDd81tlWEzUj4xf3-2VglUXF3_czNSjaGDR0MwxyDk-YVZY6lFMhTKHqBIllxHxXyXGcpJ7EqcL3ju9WH1k97y/s200/100_9496.JPG" width="193" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top to bottom. Speed & good grip: <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_58&product_id=141" target="_blank">Kojak</a><br />
Everyday use and touring: <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=71" target="_blank">Marathon</a><br />
Ice and Snow: <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=63" target="_blank">Marathon Winter</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
When on a hard surface (concrete, asphalt), grip comes from the tyre deforming over small sharp edges in the surface, not from the surface deforming to fit the tyre, for this reason, a complete slick tyre provides all the grip you need on such a surface. What's more, a tyre which has a tread pattern will generally have a higher rolling resistance due to deforming of the tyre as you ride along. For this reason, a completely slick tyre (like the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_58&product_id=141" target="_blank">Kojak</a>) would serve most people well most of the time.<br />
<br />
However, tread on a tyre is useful in some circumstances. If you sometimes ride on unfinished paths, mud, sand and snow, then a slight tread pattern is useful because the surface will then deform around the tread and provide extra grip. It is for this reason (as well as that new tread patterns look good in marketing materials) that most general purpose tyres have a slight tread.<br />
<br />
A more extreme tread pattern is needed for more extreme circumstances. Those who do cross country riding or mountain biking on rough paths benefit from an aggressive tread, and of course this becomes more extreme in examples such as the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=63" target="_blank">Marathon Winter</a> which go as far as having metal studs to pierce through ice.<br />
<br />
<b>Tyre Pressures</b><br />
It is important to maintain correct tyre pressures. While it can be It is more common that people run their tyres at too low a pressure than too high. If the pressure is too low then too much of your energy goes into deforming the tyre as you cycle, and this makes cycling considerable less efficient.<br />
<br />
If you can easily deform a tyre with your fingers then it is almost certainly under-inflated. All bicycle tyres run at higher pressures than car tyres, and car pumps are often not capable of achieving high enough pressures for a bicycle.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxOFoUhopTC6qmmecouu0e41DQmI8x44-tMfJzG8WaQDUvvMH8Bs6OJMtWg5R15ILUin-Rfd8BhwYY9kBppD4zEU2U2evNffh1Mp9Nw1IJTcxcwKB2Cpi1rrNNyi20OClbZ7S0v8STdq0M/s1600/100_9493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxOFoUhopTC6qmmecouu0e41DQmI8x44-tMfJzG8WaQDUvvMH8Bs6OJMtWg5R15ILUin-Rfd8BhwYY9kBppD4zEU2U2evNffh1Mp9Nw1IJTcxcwKB2Cpi1rrNNyi20OClbZ7S0v8STdq0M/s200/100_9493.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Racing bike tyre with "French" 700x23C<br />
description alongside ETRTO</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Narrower tyres need higher pressure than wider tyres. The racing bike tyre on the left has a recommended pressure between 6 and 10 bar (85 to 145 psi), while a wider mountain bike tyre may need just 2 to 3 bar (30 to 45 psi).<br />
<br />
Narrow tyres may damaged quite quickly by too low a pressure, while some tyres (notably the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=71" target="_blank">Schwalbe Marathon</a>) have been reformulated to make them more resistant to damage due to low pressure.<br />
<br />
For everyday use, a thumb test (if you can deform the side-wall of the tyre with your thumb, pump it up) is enough for most people. However, we also stock the very good <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=64" target="_blank">Schwalbe digital air pressure tester</a> for people who want to make sure their tyres are at a suitable pressure. We also sell <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=42_66" target="_blank">a range of pumps</a> suitable for getting your tyres to a suitable pressure.<br />
<br />
<small><small>Note that with tyres with puncture resistant layers, like the Marathon Plus, if you try to test the pressure by squeezing the running surface of the tyre, all you'll "test" is how soft the anti-puncture layer is. It's important to do this on the sides of the tyre, squeezing between thumb and forefinger.</small></small>
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<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/"><img src="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;" /></a></center>
David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-41631205353759467142012-01-11T17:48:00.000+01:002017-10-16T14:57:28.487+02:00Selecting and installing dynamo lighting<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja-k8XxsLQduqeX3PY8lO3HuZ8KbWN1kx1iqn6H6NON7AlrAyls0Fa9Vg4XCvsk-ZtVZekLZs8egZsVSPPf36ZvgoqIt46yRwvEeyYFxwgDToe07enl3B6iiuBYeL8Xk1ww8HvzzZ0KLAx/s1600/100_7465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja-k8XxsLQduqeX3PY8lO3HuZ8KbWN1kx1iqn6H6NON7AlrAyls0Fa9Vg4XCvsk-ZtVZekLZs8egZsVSPPf36ZvgoqIt46yRwvEeyYFxwgDToe07enl3B6iiuBYeL8Xk1ww8HvzzZ0KLAx/s320/100_7465.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dynamo lights installed on our delivery bike</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
(or... everything we know about dynamo lights for bicycles).<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Why dynamo lighting ?</b><br />
<br />
Much nonsense is written about dynamo lights. The objections usually come from people who don't use dynamos, or have not used them for many years.<br />
<br />
According to some "experts", dynamos either slow you down or wear out your tyres or don't produce much light, make noise, or perhaps they commit a combination of these sins.<br />
<br />
Actually, modern dynamo lighting is efficient, reliable, quiet and produces so much light that the best headlights now have optics which shape the beam to prevent those coming in the opposite way from being dazzled.<br />
<br />
For utility cyclists we recommend dynamo lighting. There are many advantages over battery powered lights:<br />
<ol>
<li>It's low cost in use as no batteries need ever be bought.</li>
<li>It's reliable for day to day use as there are no batteries to go flat and have to be charged or replaced.</li>
<li>Dynamo lights are permanently mounted on the bike, meaning you don't have to detach things and take them with you when you park your bike.</li>
<li>Permanent mounting also means your lights are always there. An unexpected delay doesn't result in cycling in the dark with no lighting.</li>
<li>There is quite a lot of power available to run lights from a dynamo so dynamo lights can be very bright.</li>
<li>Because the power source is you, your lights stay bright even on long rides. They can't fade out half way home because the battery ran out.</li>
</ol>
Dynamo lighting is a "fit and forget" option. Set it up properly once and ride with the minimum of maintenance thereafter.<br />
<br />
<b>Selecting dynamo lights</b><br />
There are a wide range of dynamo lights available, from the very cheapest all in one sets through to expensive systems which can cost more than €200. Any system of dynamo lights consists of three components, the dynamo itself, a headlight and a rear light,<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxh7ko2PBwTFtRfNSmCjF72KVztAuQ0WxxrC7EMf12qXw5FijPCiOclKI8HYu5QwVlLMifJHJE2WAEQ2nXQ1foO5rssWN2-WOvLKoCVG9RS_K4GXObLh5ZdMLn6eLpMQfoPTMU54ZmKpOw/s1600/100_8676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxh7ko2PBwTFtRfNSmCjF72KVztAuQ0WxxrC7EMf12qXw5FijPCiOclKI8HYu5QwVlLMifJHJE2WAEQ2nXQ1foO5rssWN2-WOvLKoCVG9RS_K4GXObLh5ZdMLn6eLpMQfoPTMU54ZmKpOw/s320/100_8676.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=131" target="_blank">AXA</a> and <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=65" target="_blank">Nordlicht</a> bottle dynamos, Shimano <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/search&keyword=hub&category_id=69" target="_blank">hub dynamo</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Choosing a dynamo</b><br />
There are two types of dynamo - those built in a wheel ( "hub dynamos" ) and those which run on the side-wall of a wheel ( "bottle dynamos" ). Each has advantages over the other:<br />
<ul>
<li>While no good quality dynamo will slow you down by enough to make a difference unless you're in a race, hub dynamos offer lower drag when the lights on are than bottle dynamos do. However, because bottle dynamos completely disconnect from the wheel when the lights are out, bottles offer no resistance when you are not using the lights, while hub dynamos still have a small amount of in-built drag relative to a normal well-maintained hub.</li>
<li>Hub dynamos cannot be knocked out of alignment, and will continue to work well even if your wheel is damaged and the rim bent. However, bottle dynamos do not need to be replaced if you damage your wheel and have to replace it.</li>
<li>Hub dynamos are heavier than bottle dynamos.</li>
<li>Bottle dynamos can slip in the wet (meaning your lights can be unreliable) though this is rare with correct setup.</li>
<li>Hub dynamos cost more to retrofit because you must buy or build a wheel. However, they don't require brackets to be fitted to the bike and the wheels probably don't cost as much as you think.</li>
<li>Bottle dynamos are much more straightforward to retrofit to a bike which already has hub or disk brakes or to a rear wheel with hub gears.</li>
<li>While hub dynamos are produced for specific wheel sizes (most are intended for 26" or 28" wheels and will produce more drag when used in a smaller wheel size), bottle dynamos are unaffected by wheel size because they operate on the sidewall of the tyre and are not affected at all by wheel rotational velocity.</li>
</ul>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLut81PGxrsMO96Hc60ppwGMQRts3__PJ9r47ZKAvwTy9KpugyyU6fQoG5-6ZC43acBHe2-Mr8z3BXX2bTZXzDE-Uh7Qj3oKQ-O5GNe8z3TQf71-yeVKdTTiJlTymOzAC9Q0kTQgDIPuVG/s1600/Dynamo-Lighting-Sets-1603-.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLut81PGxrsMO96Hc60ppwGMQRts3__PJ9r47ZKAvwTy9KpugyyU6fQoG5-6ZC43acBHe2-Mr8z3BXX2bTZXzDE-Uh7Qj3oKQ-O5GNe8z3TQf71-yeVKdTTiJlTymOzAC9Q0kTQgDIPuVG/s200/Dynamo-Lighting-Sets-1603-.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A cheap "all in one" dynamo<br />
lighting set. We don't sell these.<br />
If you're struggling with a set like<br />
this, see <a href="http://blog.dutchbikebits.com/2012/01/selecting-and-installing-dynamo.html#bottledynamosetup">our guide below</a>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We sell <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=40_69&page=1" target="_blank">both bottle and hub dynamos</a>. We've used both types over the years. At the moment, most of our own bikes are fitted with bottle dynamos. Our favourite bottle dynamo is the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=65" target="_blank">Nordlicht</a>. This is made of metal, robust, very reliable and light running. We're still using one that we bought 15 years ago. A lot of quality for something so inexpensive. We also rate the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=131" target="_blank">AXA HR</a> which is a little less expensive and perhaps runs slightly lighter. We also have a range of wheels with Shimano hub dynamos. These <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=40_69" target="_blank">start at under €90</a>. Very good value for what you get.<br />
<br />
Very nearly all currently available dynamos, whether hub or bottle, have the same output of 6 volts at 3 Watts to power both front and back lights. 2.4 W is allocated for the front light and 0.6 W for the rear. Just a few models of hub dynamo produce 6 V 2.4 W making them suitable for powering just the front light.<br />
<br />
This means that all dynamos are compatible with any available dynamo lights and you can mix and match to achieve a combination which has the performance and price that you want. Even the cheapest all in one set has the same output, so even if you have started with a set like this, you can swap one component at a time for those of better quality until you have a satisfactory lighting setup.<br />
<br />
There's just one thing to bear in mind with headlights - with a hub dynamo you want either a manual or automatic light sensing switch on the headlight so that you don't run the lights even in daytime. This switch will also operate the rear light.<br />
<br />
Oh, and something I must point out about having 2.4 W for the front lights. This is quite a lot of energy for bicycle lighting. Most battery lights of old used 0.75 W front bulbs as higher power led to very short battery life. Contrary to many people's opinions, dynamo lights were always brighter than battery lights. While some high end battery lights available these days are brighter than dynamo lights, many battery powered lights still do not attempt to produce so much light as even low cost dynamo headlights do, because trying to do so results in a short battery life.<br />
<br />
<b>Dynamo headlights</b><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsFMfi5q0RxgQ2C4OWnD_DVG0-eJt_nowGsFeCGKXxXj8yCVtiR_fKU_6EHBoDrYJpHCUuflSPl7ZjdQ6zWQdTftV-hu1BDxfKOgxBuOxC3v6O0F-1nSaCwrBgvxSoJopp-9lsA6YMRpTe/s1600/L1020548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="733" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsFMfi5q0RxgQ2C4OWnD_DVG0-eJt_nowGsFeCGKXxXj8yCVtiR_fKU_6EHBoDrYJpHCUuflSPl7ZjdQ6zWQdTftV-hu1BDxfKOgxBuOxC3v6O0F-1nSaCwrBgvxSoJopp-9lsA6YMRpTe/s320/L1020548.JPG" width="293" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three of our favourite dynamo headlights. The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/lights/dynamo-lights/Marwi-35-Lux-Dynamo-Headlight" target="_blank">excellent<br />value Union UN4268</a>, the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/lights/dynamo-lights/busch-und-muller-iq-cyo-dynamo-headlight" target="_blank">Busch und Muller IQ Cyo</a> and<br />the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/lights/dynamo-lights/axa-luxx-70-plus-headlight-with-usb" target="_blank">AXA Luxx 70 with USB charging</a>. All three use<br />mirrors and lenses to produce an optimal light pattern<br />for maximum brightness on the road without blinding<br />oncoming road users</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
In days of old, dynamo lights used sometimes incandescent bulbs. These were often used with reflector designs which spread the light too broadly and could result in a not very effective light pattern. Halogen bulbs improved the situation considerably as they increased the light output for the same power, and better reflector shapes helped even more. However, they were never quite adequate for fast cyclists.<br />
<br />
The introduction of LED headlights has changed everything. 2.4 W (the headlight share of the 3 W output of a dynamo) is enough to produce a considerable amount of light from LEDs. Also, LEDs last and last and last. There is no need to replace bulbs.<br />
<br />
Even at a low price, modern dynamo LED headlights work extremely well. At the mid and high price ranges they become yet more effective.<br />
<br />
An important advance is shaped lenses and use of indirect light from the LED source. This has made it possible to build extremely bright lights with a sharp cut off at the top which won't blind oncoming cyclists and drivers. It also means that more light goes where it is needed for you to see by because less is wasted in the wrong direction.<br />
<br />
We currently particularly recommend the following headlights. All but the Cyo also includes a retro-reflector which shows up in car headlights:<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=327" target="_blank">AXA Luxx 70 plus</a> - ( €70 ) Enormous light output. When you're not using the light, this also provides a USB outlet to charge mobile devices.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/busch-und-muller-iq-cyo-dynamo-headlight" target="_blank">Busch und Muller Cyo Plus</a> - ( €60 ) The same 70 lux output as the AXA, but with a better lens and without the USB outlet.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/lights/dynamo-lights/busch-und-muller-iq-fly-t" target="_blank">B&M IQ Fly T</a> - ( €60 ) Provides daylight lighting which some people like for additional visibility during day time.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/lights/dynamo-lights/Marwi-35-Lux-Dynamo-Headlight" target="_blank">Union / Marwi UN-4268</a> - ( €17) a low cost bargain of a light with excellent performance, using a similar reflector pattern to the more expensive Busch und Muller lights. A 35 lux LED output with standlight is excellent at this price. Includes a switch so can be used with bottle or hub dynamos. For hub dynamos there's also the option of an automatic function.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=167" target="_blank">B&M Lumotec Lyt</a> - ( €17 ) a lower cost option from Busch und Muller. Not so bright as the UN-4268, not such a good beam shape and no standlight at this price, but it does have the Busch und Muller name behind it. Includes a switch so can be used with hub or bottle dynamo.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=105" target="_blank">AXA Sprint 10 lux</a> - a much lower cost light. In fact, a bargain at just €15. It's not so bright as the Union, B&M Lyt or the more expensive lamps, but still well in advance of what was available ten years ago and still entirely adequate for riding in town where there are street lights. Optional switch and stand light functions.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<b>Dynamo rear lights</b></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj345wtXKmPp8GuFR7iP-JhjzkWTXSGqCrp_ke7HYuBzTaBKINkyd5_sf9viNFwtTGcp4HQ-aiAJ5UK_dkwwBZmr7Vq7Vf_Uj-oLaDKKhUwq3B8CWzxkkxO2TNM_RBs1xBJ95KqOFD9DhUp/s1600/L1020552.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="491" data-original-width="800" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj345wtXKmPp8GuFR7iP-JhjzkWTXSGqCrp_ke7HYuBzTaBKINkyd5_sf9viNFwtTGcp4HQ-aiAJ5UK_dkwwBZmr7Vq7Vf_Uj-oLaDKKhUwq3B8CWzxkkxO2TNM_RBs1xBJ95KqOFD9DhUp/s320/L1020552.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of our favourite dynamo rear lights, all from Busch und<br />Muller: The good value <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/lights/dynamo-lights/busch-und-muller-toplight-flat-light" target="_blank">Flat-Plus</a>, the excellent <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/lights/dynamo-lights/busch-und-muller-toplight-line-plus-light" target="_blank">Line-Plus</a> and<br />the mudguard / rear stay mounting <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/lights/dynamo-lights/busch-und-muller-secula-plus-light" target="_blank">Secula Plus</a>. All have the<br />"standlight" feature which means they stay lit when you stop.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<div>
Dynamo rear lights have also been revolutionized by LED technology. It made it possible to have a "stand light", where the light would charge up and store electricity so that it can continue to glow after you stop cycling.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
With rear lights, there are other factors to consider, such as where you will mount the light. Some rear lights are designed to mount on the rear <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=43" target="_blank">mudguard (fender)</a> while others are designed to mount on the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=38" target="_blank">rear rack</a>.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Our favourite rear dynamo lights are as follows. All include a stand-light function and a reflector to give extra visibility when lit by car headlights:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=60" target="_blank">Busch und Müller Secula Plus</a> ( €20 ) - Excellent small light which spreads the light from its LEDs to increase visibility while not creating an unpleasant ultra-bridge hot-spot which blinds cyclists behind you. Options for mounting on the rear mudguard or on the seat-stay.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=168" target="_blank">Busch und Müller Toplight Line-Plus </a> ( €25 ) - Excellent quality bright rear light which spreads the LED output sideways to avoid blinding others.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=344" target="_blank">Busch und Müller Toplight Flat</a> ( €13 -) a more economical but still nicely made rear rack mounting light.</li>
</ul>
<div>
Finally, note that running the rear light from the dynamo is optional. You can also use a dynamo front light together with a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=40_68" target="_blank">battery rear light</a>. Some people prefer this due to not having to run so many cables along their bike. We have battery rear lights to use together with dynamo lights which can be <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=40_68_80" target="_blank">mounted permanently on the bike</a>.<br />
<br />
<b style="background-color: white;">Other things you'll need</b></div>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0tx0r7CCC8DAm0gINHMnRmNR9x7gCGHp3m0-lzsHwxEFk4nPoNhyphenhyphen0IUpzbllPGje-qKpAeceOoCgY74hLbBhfJ2GLwSVuIHYQa1bwnXhKHyFdI9gsnSd7gYlQEN-FhBmr5rKJ2jCFVPt-/s1600/100_8672.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0tx0r7CCC8DAm0gINHMnRmNR9x7gCGHp3m0-lzsHwxEFk4nPoNhyphenhyphen0IUpzbllPGje-qKpAeceOoCgY74hLbBhfJ2GLwSVuIHYQa1bwnXhKHyFdI9gsnSd7gYlQEN-FhBmr5rKJ2jCFVPt-/s200/100_8672.JPG" width="183" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We sell <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=234" target="_blank">wire</a> and <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=138" target="_blank">zip ties</a> but not tape</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
As well as the main parts of dynamo, front and rear light, there are other parts that you will probably need.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Some lights come with wire, but not all. You will probably need wire to attach between the dynamo and headlight or between the headlight and rear light. We sell <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=234" target="_blank">wire fitted with the correct size of push on connector</a> for our lights.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
You can use <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=138" target="_blank">zip-ties</a> and/or electrical tape to run the wires along the forks and frame of your bike. We have <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=138" target="_blank">inexpensive zip-ties</a> but do not currently sell tape because you can almost certainly buy it as cheaply as we can in a discount store near your home, and you may be able to find colours which are a good match to your bike.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
If using <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=138" target="_blank">zip-ties</a>, which we recommend you do, please don't do them up so tight that you cut through the insulation of the wire. Also, remember to leave a little loop of wire around the headset so that the handlebars can be turned without putting undue stress of wire which is heading to the rear lamp.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVi6R-Tx2jh0QuY-WBL-yh6EzmmsL7NZYecUEWHPv3uH0ZEq1ROHOVN75SM_NePB2yc1e_TSETkYOhRs2E1W8PGyl1sw-m08x4Do25LdPhAnnXQl0dfCVLtFZghqNbr7JtTywpbiSjoNqR/s1600/100_8678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="143" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVi6R-Tx2jh0QuY-WBL-yh6EzmmsL7NZYecUEWHPv3uH0ZEq1ROHOVN75SM_NePB2yc1e_TSETkYOhRs2E1W8PGyl1sw-m08x4Do25LdPhAnnXQl0dfCVLtFZghqNbr7JtTywpbiSjoNqR/s320/100_8678.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dynamo mounting brackets. Left to right: <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=bracket&category_id=69&product_id=121" target="_blank">front wheel</a>,<br />
<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=bracket&category_id=69&product_id=122" target="_blank">rear wheel</a>, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=bracket&category_id=69&product_id=123" target="_blank">Canti / V brake boss</a>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
If fitting a bottle dynamo to a bike which doesn't have a bottle dynamo mount on the frame or fork, you will need to buy a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/search&keyword=bracket&category_id=69" target="_blank">bracket</a>. Of these, we think the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=bracket&category_id=69&product_id=123" target="_blank">Cantilever / V brake</a> mounting bracket works best, so if you have mounting points for these brakes, whether or not they are in use, this would be our first choice. Like most things we sell, we use it ourselves as you can see in the first photo on this page.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQY7vN0OZU0tuIRPHdrBxPCHwUzfM6jZd7LpjePhQ8n4-MgW-VxdvKRwuvTsJEnoSVdBcLF16Q9fclmZ0NZ6Vqk6MreKOrwWVMBLMgszkvjom5z-48_nFZhUhJpKRzyXwkZAcOEB6wngmp/s1600/dynamowiring.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQY7vN0OZU0tuIRPHdrBxPCHwUzfM6jZd7LpjePhQ8n4-MgW-VxdvKRwuvTsJEnoSVdBcLF16Q9fclmZ0NZ6Vqk6MreKOrwWVMBLMgszkvjom5z-48_nFZhUhJpKRzyXwkZAcOEB6wngmp/s320/dynamowiring.png" width="320" /></a>While the electricity from the dynamo is AC, it is still important to make sure that you keep the "earth" connection consistent through the wiring of your lights. The reason is that the "earth" is connected to the frame of the bike within both the dynamo and some of the lights. Confusions over "earth" can lead to faults such as the switch on a headlight not actually switching off your lights because electricity is flowing through the frame of your bike, or the lights either being very dim or not lighting at all due to a short circuit through the frame.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The "earth" side of each light and dynamo is made obvious by labels on each component. If unsure, use the wiring diagram. The black wire in the diagram denotes the earth connection. The outside of the wire does not of course have to be this colour. With the wire that we supply, both are black but the earth wire has a white stripe along it.</div>
<div>
<br />
When there is no switch on a headlight, the input and output are the same. Just connect the wires from the dynamo and to the rear light together at this point (doing it this way makes it easier to change to a different headlight at a later date).<br />
<br />
<div style="float: right;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="180" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Q_QzCeE7OvM?rel=0" width="320"></iframe></div>
<b>Switching a dynamo on and off</b><br />
Not all bottle dynamos work in an identical manner, but it is usually the case that you press a button of some kind to release the spring to allow the dynamo to push against the wheel to switch the dynamo on and pull the dynamo gently away from the wheel until you feel a click to switch back off.<br />
<br />
In this video I demonstrate with <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40&product_id=65" target="_blank">a Nordlicht dynamo</a>, the type that we recommended most highly</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5388564014174344904" name="bottledynamosetup"></a>
<b>Setting up a bottle dynamo</b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOVP2BjsByB5iOYmNFUaDConkGvwA4KglANsUcki_V5l_8S3D4aHg91kfwO9g2sMGn7Bs5Wl_ZKZQYEVAeTTUt6qiKCFN1o7gTNazYO-ZUDZ33Vz4E2du425u9aa6cnHrmsxuqWee-dHgS/s1600/100_8675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="143" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOVP2BjsByB5iOYmNFUaDConkGvwA4KglANsUcki_V5l_8S3D4aHg91kfwO9g2sMGn7Bs5Wl_ZKZQYEVAeTTUt6qiKCFN1o7gTNazYO-ZUDZ33Vz4E2du425u9aa6cnHrmsxuqWee-dHgS/s200/100_8675.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dynamo should run on the dynamo<br />
track on the side of the tyre.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
There are a few factors which should be taken into account when using bottle dynamos. If you take care of these small issues then problems with bottle dynamos are rare:<br />
<ol>
<li>Run the dynamo on a tyre with a dynamo tread and make sure that the dynamo is aligned so that it runs correctly along that tread.<br /><br />Skinwall racing tyres are not designed for use with a dynamo and the sidewall of such a tyre could be damaged by using a dynamo against it. All the tyres that we <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=41_59" target="_blank">recommend for everyday use</a> have a dynamo track on their sidewall. However, if you prefer skinwall tyres, note that the Nordlicht dynamo can be run on the rim, which makes it compatible with skinwall tyres.<br /> </li>
<li>Take care of correct pressure against the sidewall of the tyre.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz6Iz5ISKjL71wELtZ78eiH7ZbB7zgdbs6nTJpYgF2qMrGD3CCSp5bxlCmVXCQ2K6eVAdQITPBPJyMnd90SWOazzYtb37pGxvi4jcWC6wXwPWiIr_1NHSWJMeJzKr48JYcK6moqJqLJ4f7/s1600/100_8674.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz6Iz5ISKjL71wELtZ78eiH7ZbB7zgdbs6nTJpYgF2qMrGD3CCSp5bxlCmVXCQ2K6eVAdQITPBPJyMnd90SWOazzYtb37pGxvi4jcWC6wXwPWiIr_1NHSWJMeJzKr48JYcK6moqJqLJ4f7/s200/100_8674.JPG" width="157" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the "off" position, the gap<br />
between tyre and dynamo<br />
roller must be right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />I find that setting up the dynamo so that in the "off" position it is about one cm
clear of the tyre works best. You may find that this varies a little with different combinations of tyre and dynamo.<br /><br />Note that when you change between different tyres of different widths this distance may need setting up again.<br /><br />To adjust the gap between the rubber or steel roller of the dynamo and the tyre you can bend the
brazed on bracket until this spacing is correct. If the gap is
too wide <i>or</i> too short then it may result in there being inadequate
pressure. Your correct distance may not be the same as mine. Excessive
pressure results in more drag and can also sometimes result in the dynamo slipping.<br /><br />The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=65" target="_blank">Nordlicht dynamo</a> with rubber wheel can also be set up to run on the rim. The same rules apply.<br /> </li>
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5388564014174344904" name="alignment"></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPoV5f6na-5ueiWS5ze3WsJfW0UGDgpqEEIwQe4rYvXa7xwFgjZogqb3V7e3-DiKhGP0aD_553jCKEdLDsUQVKic2P9QCJ8Woseelfa6-E8nsjTQY1e49mP-EWnAsI7ztYJ_YrJuq6PkfD/s1600/100_8673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPoV5f6na-5ueiWS5ze3WsJfW0UGDgpqEEIwQe4rYvXa7xwFgjZogqb3V7e3-DiKhGP0aD_553jCKEdLDsUQVKic2P9QCJ8Woseelfa6-E8nsjTQY1e49mP-EWnAsI7ztYJ_YrJuq6PkfD/s320/100_8673.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A straight line between the axis of the dynamo and the centre<br />
of the wheel is important.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<li>The dynamo axis must be lined up so that it passes directly over the centre of the wheel. Not doing this will roll out the roller on the dynamo more quickly than normal and can even damage
bearings in the dynamo.<br /> </li>
<li>Slipping can occur if the roller is worn out. Replacement rubber rollers can be bought in our shop for both the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=132" target="_blank">AXA</a> and <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=66" target="_blank">Nordlicht</a> dynamos. In both cases you simply pull off the old one and push the new one on to replace it.</li>
<li>Bent wheels result in intermittent lighting behaviour because the dynamo
stops operating as the low point comes around.<br /><br />Solving this problem requires either a new wheel or rebuilding of the existing wheel. Minor problems can sometimes be solved by tweaking with a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=67" target="_blank">spoke-key</a>. Loosen spokes on the side which is convex, and tighten adjacent spokes by the same number of turns on the side which is concave.</li>
<li>A squealing noise from the dynamo quite possibly means that the internal bearings are worn out. It's usually accompanied by much more drag and can result in intermittent light. This happens quite quickly with some cheap dynamos, and is aggravated by incorrect setup with the axis of the dynamo not going past the centre of the wheel. If your dynamo has reached this point, you <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=40_69" target="_blank">may well need to replace it</a>. A better quality dynamo will last longer than a cheap one.<br /><br />However, before you dispose of the old dynamo, try applying some light oil, just a couple of drops, to the bearings. You may need to remove the roller to do this. If the dynamo is old, but still in good condition, it may simply have dried out.</li>
<li>Periodic noises: If a noise occurs roughly twice or three times a second with a bottle dynamo setup, this is caused by the wheel, not the dynamo. Wheels on bicycles rotate roughly two to three times a second at a normal rate of cycling. A warped wheel, a defect on the tyre or other problems with the wheel can cause slipping or jumping of a bottle dynamo at the frequency of wheel rotation and can make quite a lot of noise. If you experience this problem, turn the wheel slowly and watch for defects.</li>
</ol>
<div>
<br /></div>
<b>Conclusion</b><br />
This article is quite long because I've tried to cover everything. However, setting up dynamo lights isn't difficult to do. Once it's been done, you have "free" lighting with lights which are permanently attached to your bike and cannot be easily stolen (you need tools). A great bonus for utility cyclists, as you don't have to carry things with you when you leave your bike.<br />
<br />
For some kinds of sport cycling, for example road racers who want to carry absolutely the minimum of weight and be able to easily remove their bikes for daytime racing, or night-time mountain bikers who want enormously powerful lights which flood the entire area in front of them with light<sup><a href="http://blog.dutchbikebits.com/2012/01/selecting-and-installing-dynamo.html#1">1</a></sup>, there is no real choice but to use battery powered lights. For the rest of us, dynamos really are the best option.<br />
<br />
<b>FAQ</b><br />
Q: Do bottle dynamos wear the sidewall of your tyre ?<br />
A: No. The roller has very little pressure compared with that of the bike on the road so wear on the sidewall of the tyre is very much lower than that of the tyre against the road surface. Normally you will notice no sidewall wear of significance in the lifetime of a tyre. You should, however, only use a sidewall dynamo on a tyre which has a dynamo track printed on it.<br />
<br />
Q: Can I use a dynamo with a small wheeled bicycle ?<br />
A: Hub dynamos are designed to operate at a particular rotational velocity. Most are designed for 26" to 28" wheels (see our blog post about <a href="http://blog.dutchbikebits.com/2012/05/choosing-right-size-of-tyres-for-your.html">wheel sizes</a>). If fitted to a smaller wheel size they will generate the same amount of electricity at a lower speed and create more drag. Bottle dynamos operate against the tyre or wheel rim. This moves past the dynamo at the same speed as the road surface moves past your bicycle. Wheel size doesn't matter at all for bottle dynamos. They are equally efficient on a small wheel bicycle as on a larger wheel bicycle.<br />
<br />
Q: What happens if I go too fast ?<br />
A: In the past it was not uncommon for fast riders, especially when cycling downhill, to blow light bulbs in older style dynamo lighting. This is no longer a concern with modern LED dynamo lights. Similarly, use of a hub dynamo on a small wheel, even when cycling downhill, is unlikely to cause a problem. Bottle dynamo users who are concerned about this issue can install a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/lights/dynamo-lights/generic-rubber-rollers-for-dynamos" target="_blank">larger diameter roller</a> on their dynamo which reduces output at higher speeds and also reduces drag.<br />
<br />
Q: Do bottle dynamos slip in the wet ?<br />
A: With a quality dynamo this is unlikely to happen unless the dynamo is not set up correctly. See the <a href="http://blog.dutchbikebits.com/2012/01/selecting-and-installing-dynamo.html#bottledynamosetup">setup section</a><br />
<br />
Q: How much does a dynamo slow you down ?<br />
A: Almost not at all. I wouldn't expect to be slowed by more than 1/20th of my normal speed by a well set up quality bottle dynamo when the lights are on. A hub dynamo will slow you even less and of course when lights are off there no no drag from a bottle dynamo and very nearly none from a hub. The stronger you are, the less the effect can be felt.<br />
<br />
Q: Which dynamos keep the lights glowing when you stop ?<br />
A: None of them. This function is always in the headlights and tail-lights themselves, and it's present in all of the rear lights and almost all of the front lights in our shop.<br />
<br />
Q: Don't the lights go out when you stop ?<br />
A: No. Almost all good quality dynamo lights these days include a "standlight". This is a circuit including a capacitor which stores some of the energy generated to keep the lights on when you stop. It works for up to four minutes with some lights<br />
<br />
Q: What happens if I use a headlight without a switch on a hub dynamo ?<br />
A: The lights will come on whenever you ride your bike, even in the daytime. Some older hub dynamos were actually more efficient with the lights on than with them switched off. However, this isn't true for the hub dynamos that we sell now. It's better to have a switch.<br />
<br />
Q: If I have an old dynamo lighting set and one component has failed then do I have to buy everything new again ?<br />
A: Almost all dynamo lighting sets ever made are rated at 6 V 3 W. If yours has this rating (it's usually written on the bottom of the dynamo) then it is safe to substitute any of the front lights, rear lights or dynamos that we sell and use them in any combination with older parts for the same system.<br />
<br />
Q: I have an old Sturmey Archer Dynohub. Can this work with modern headlights ?<br />
A: The original Sturmey Archer Dynohub had a slightly lower rating. 6 V 2 W. Headlights expect 6 V 2.4 W. This means there isn't enough output to run a normal headlight at full brightness. However, in practice, the combination of one of these venerable dynohubs with a modern LED headlight will result in much more light than you ever could have produced with the original lights which matched the dynohub. It is best in this case to use a battery rear light so that all the energy from the dynohub goes to the headlight. Modern "dynohubs" produce 6 V 3 W and can run both front and rear lights.<br />
<br />
Q: Where is the best place to buy good quality dynamo lighting ?<br />
A: The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/" target="_blank">Dutch Bike Bits webshop</a>, of course. We also have a wide range of battery lights if you would prefer them.<br />
<br />
Q: Why can't you use just a dynamo rear light without a front light ?<br />
A: The simple answer is that a rear dynamo light will always be damaged if used without a front light. The explanation of why is quite <span style="background-color: white;">long and technical, but you'll find it below:</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<span style="background-color: white;">It is perfectly safe to use any of our dynamo front lights with our dynamos without also connecting a rear light. This will not damage the headlight. However, you must never use a dynamo to power a rear light without a headlight also being connected as this is quite likely to cause damage due to driving the rear light with too high a voltage. The reason why is as follows:</span><br />
<br />
Sources of electrical power can approximate either a constant voltage or a constant current.<br />
<br />
Constant voltage: A battery is an example of a constant voltage source, and it will attempt to supply the same voltage whatever load is attached. If you short-circuit a battery, then the battery will attempt to discharge at an infinite current and this is why lithium batteries, which are capable of very high currents, can cause fires.<br />
<br />
Constant current: A bicycle dynamo is an example of a constant current source. Bicycle dynamos are rated at 6 V 3 W but what this really means is that they are current sources which attempt to deliver half an amp across whatever load is connected. The expected load of a rear and front light together is the equivalent of 12 ohms. A dynamo tries to supply sufficient voltage always to deliver the same current. With a short circuit, the dynamo will still deliver about 0.5 A at zero volts, but with an open circuit the dynamo will produce so high a voltage as it can in an attempt to deliver 0.5 amps.<br />
<br />
You don't need to know any maths to safely connect dynamo lights. Simply pick a front and (optional) rear light, and wire them in parallel to a dynamo. However, if you want to know why you should never use a rear light on its own, read on:<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white;">The 12 ohm equivalent resistance for front and rear lights together comes from the front and rear lights being connected in parallel. The front light has an equivalent resistance of 15 ohms while the rear light is the equivalent of 60 ohms. To combine the two we use 1 / (1 / 15 + 1 / 60) = 12. Now that we know the equivalent resistance of each light we can calculate the current and power for each if used on their own.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white;">For a front light alone, V=IR, V=0.5 * 15 = 7.5 V. P = IV, P = 0.5 * 7.5 = 3.75 W. This is a little over the rated value of 2.4 W, sufficient to damage older front lights with bulbs unless the bulb is changed to 3 W. However, modern LED based front lights can cope.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white;">For a rear light, V=IR, V=0.5 * 60 = 30 V. P = IV, P = 0.5 * 30 = 15 W. This is a long way over the rated values of 0.6 W and 6 V and this is why dynamo rear lights do not last long if connected on their own to a dynamo. The front light is required to keep the voltage down to the correct level for the rear light.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<small><small><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5388564014174344904" name="1"><sup>1</sup></a>Please don't use mountain bike type lighting when you're not in a mountain bike race. It's anti-social and potentially dangerous to other road and cycle-path users who can be blinded by the amount of light scattered too high in front of you. It's analogous to driving a car with the headlights on full beam. The lights that we recommend here, especially the Philips lights, are very bright while being specifically designed to avoid this problem.</small></small>
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<center>
<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/"><img src="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;" /></a></center>
David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-86528597330071020112011-12-12T00:00:00.001+01:002016-08-29T09:56:36.036+02:00Special delivery by velomobile<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Cwhfu2xU-9amojZ-U6FZiao0gD6OoZcsTxGY_wv-_Hixra32Ot4Rhcq3938H67Ut6Y5ulGJy0bOJR2Up1CGTpVIfdzF0iPB8ZFqwNDywp7F6G7JXr9lgSm-eGl4YI7xEhR7oO18tzhco/s1600/100_8500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Cwhfu2xU-9amojZ-U6FZiao0gD6OoZcsTxGY_wv-_Hixra32Ot4Rhcq3938H67Ut6Y5ulGJy0bOJR2Up1CGTpVIfdzF0iPB8ZFqwNDywp7F6G7JXr9lgSm-eGl4YI7xEhR7oO18tzhco/s640/100_8500.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><small>Curiosity ?<small></small></small></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Most of our customers at the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/" target="_blank">Dutch Bike Bits webshop</a> are outside of the Netherlands. Those who are within the country mostly are a fair distance away so while all the parcels <a href="http://blog.dutchbikebits.com/2011/08/evolution-of-our-xtracycle.html">start their journey to the customer by bike</a>, most are then transported by vans, ships, aeroplanes etc. in order to get to the customer.<br />
<br />
Occasionally we have a customer nearer by. The 30th of November was a very nice bright day for this time of year, ideal cycling weather, so I decided to take a customer's order of tyres and inner tubes directly to his home 20 km away. There's a video:<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/wJ40CSS5j6s?rel=0" width="640"></iframe>
<br />
The parts delivered were a pair of <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_60&product_id=63">Schwalbe Marathon Winter</a> studded tyres, a pair of <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_60&product_id=62">Schwable Marathon Plus</a> tyres and <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=102">Schwalbe Inner Tubes</a>.
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="http://hembrow.eu/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-21595353310068683692011-12-05T18:35:00.001+01:002016-08-29T09:56:43.253+02:00Top quality bicycle lights for roads and cycle-pathsLights for bicycles come in several different types. These days, there are a lot of lights produced for mountain biking which are extremely bright, but which are antisocial or even dangerous when used on the road or cycle-path. The problem is that of round lenses and round light patterns. These spread the light equally in all directions, which is fine if you're riding in a 24 hour mountain biking race and want to see what is beside and above a trail as well as a short distance in front of yourself, but it's not good for use at higher speed or with other road users coming in the opposite direction.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNiVmLHR8uudyGyE-LgAwXVN8r5aEOrJzgl-9UmiMq7MMkLeaYBRj_FFkuyUQ0PuX36TZhq0j2dm0k3SwoHysgbxMrGOJENyS_kzRALYxj7qCLDdBRnsoGPKf5u4rVTjGbZxFoBB0QZqrk/s1600/100_8411-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNiVmLHR8uudyGyE-LgAwXVN8r5aEOrJzgl-9UmiMq7MMkLeaYBRj_FFkuyUQ0PuX36TZhq0j2dm0k3SwoHysgbxMrGOJENyS_kzRALYxj7qCLDdBRnsoGPKf5u4rVTjGbZxFoBB0QZqrk/s320/100_8411-1.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three different Philips headlights side by side.<br />
The left-most is the 80 lux battery light, the<br />
middle is the 60 lux dynamo light and the right<br />
is the 40 lux dynamo light.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For some years, the most effective bicycle lights available were those from the German company <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/manufacturer&manufacturer_id=13" target="_blank">Busch & Müller</a>. B&M were one of the first companies to produce bicycle lights with optics which cut off the beam at the top so that powerful LEDs could be used without blinding oncoming cyclists. There are also other benefits of this design. The beam is graduated in strength so that there is more light further away but under the cut-off and less close by. This means that the ground appears to be relatively evenly lit.<br />
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Lights like this are very clever. Because there is less light wasted too high or too far to the side, and all of the light is going in a useful direction, battery life is better than it would be for a light with a round lens which tries to compensate for its waste by producing more light.<br />
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I have B&M headlights on two of my bikes and they were absolutely a revelation when I first saw them. With my 50 lux <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_68&product_id=57" target="_blank">B&M IQ Speed</a> I found I could ride at 40 km/h in darkness and see perfectly well where I was going. I'd never had that experience with older bicycle lights. I enthusiastically recommended the B&M lights for some years. However, B&M's technology has now been leapfrogged quite comprehensively by Philips - an old company with an excellent new product line<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidyN-HbCeBbh7RYuHXFCysQ4oP7aeRagK-amptElAcnZ1RloU6wiIf2Zl8xBDgElsg1bIQk2cZ4MDdGIZFy1Wq-5KF7NvU4cLIUy1oZYyeGLdBe_F7Q-AHA0_iBMsS5pCQK8nO2uHMCBFo/s1600/100_8412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="113" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidyN-HbCeBbh7RYuHXFCysQ4oP7aeRagK-amptElAcnZ1RloU6wiIf2Zl8xBDgElsg1bIQk2cZ4MDdGIZFy1Wq-5KF7NvU4cLIUy1oZYyeGLdBe_F7Q-AHA0_iBMsS5pCQK8nO2uHMCBFo/s200/100_8412.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_68&product_id=181" target="_blank">80 lux battery light</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Philips "Safe Ride" line-up currently includes four front lights and two rear lights. All the front lights use a curved mirror to direct the light to the front, but not to above so that they avoid dazzling other road users. The body of this lamp is of cast aluminium. It's very sturdy.<br />
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The biggest and brightest light is the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_68&product_id=181" target="_blank">80 lux battery lamp</a>. This uses two high power LEDs and runs from rechargeable batteries provided with the light. This light mounts on your handlebars. It's a competitor with my IQ Speed, but provides nearly twice the light at little more than half of the cost of the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_68&product_id=57" target="_blank">IQ Speed + battery</a> package.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJax2KjkbcPttxYxHaZ41akN_JkTca71ipiSQQYOIKDfr2NoaW8pg5UNtCoa2V6VoU3j8MX7zMpk5ZuHG4SdySuQMP1e6p8qzMFZ6vkS9G8TegJyLfEiv_OXtuYrXVEi7rzYSnKbcHyE-6/s1600/100_8413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJax2KjkbcPttxYxHaZ41akN_JkTca71ipiSQQYOIKDfr2NoaW8pg5UNtCoa2V6VoU3j8MX7zMpk5ZuHG4SdySuQMP1e6p8qzMFZ6vkS9G8TegJyLfEiv_OXtuYrXVEi7rzYSnKbcHyE-6/s200/100_8413.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=169" target="_blank">60 lux dynamo light</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The second largest and second brightest Philips headlight is <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=169" target="_blank">the 60 lux dynamo light</a>. This looks almost exactly like a scaled down version of the 80 lux light, again with an aluminium housing and two LEDs pointing downwards towards a curved mirror which directs the light to the front.<br />
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The light stores enough energy to remain glowing for four minutes after you stop, or until you switch it off. The switch on the top also can be used to switch power to a rear dynamo light.<br />
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A reflector is built into the mounting bracket for this light so that no separate front reflector need be fitted to your bike. The bracket fits to the top of the fork crown.<br />
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Side by side, the 80 lux and 60 lux lamps produce a very similar beam, with the bigger lamp providing a bit more light over a slightly larger area.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIZf_28x8xE-6OUjqXlepWZDDZJMuRjilpfFA52e0EFob4CR_okcFXC_t1t4Fpn8GcZF1jlWXeVDdQ_Tp2i8Nk6twjK8m41j1JGvp57Ii0Fd-WY2OPCvpIn4nTiKPLFoaJW-GoJNB2ygXC/s1600/100_8414.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="123" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIZf_28x8xE-6OUjqXlepWZDDZJMuRjilpfFA52e0EFob4CR_okcFXC_t1t4Fpn8GcZF1jlWXeVDdQ_Tp2i8Nk6twjK8m41j1JGvp57Ii0Fd-WY2OPCvpIn4nTiKPLFoaJW-GoJNB2ygXC/s200/100_8414.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=229" target="_blank">40 lux dynamo light</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=229" target="_blank">40 lux headlamp</a> is smaller again. The baby of the range, it uses a single LED, this time pointing upwards toward a curved mirror. There is space on the front of this light to also include a reflector, so no separate reflector is provided.<br />
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While this somewhat less light than its bigger brothers, it is still very impressive. It easily beats the performance of old style halogen lights as well as the 10 lux requirements of the strict German StVZO standard.<br />
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The 40 lux dynamo light again includes a four minute stand-light. It also includes a light sensor instead of a switch so that it switches on automatically when light levels are dim. There is a switched output on the light to operate a rear lamp. This is convenient for fit and forget usage with a hub dynamo, but does not preclude usage with a bottle dynamo. The much lower price of the 40 lux light is reflected in a plastic body in place of aluminium.<br />
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Side by side, I found that the most obvious difference between the 40 lux and 60 lux lamps is in the width of the beam - the lower cost lamp with one LED gives a narrower view.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK6Uaz5QdqAqjQDGzaoR6rzKDC5ifzYQgLHkMiZ1F22TlA2ALh9NkocBlzkL3kqX92kWjDlHIi4hYtapA2m5o0i8V7XayLDU2w4CuvFgkzkLD8GBiu0Hoq51NceQrE3F5NE2Jm0lZD_JUB/s1600/100_8488.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="97" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK6Uaz5QdqAqjQDGzaoR6rzKDC5ifzYQgLHkMiZ1F22TlA2ALh9NkocBlzkL3kqX92kWjDlHIi4hYtapA2m5o0i8V7XayLDU2w4CuvFgkzkLD8GBiu0Hoq51NceQrE3F5NE2Jm0lZD_JUB/s200/100_8488.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=230" target="_blank">Philips Lumiring rear light</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=230" target="_blank">Philips LumiRing rear lights</a> also use a novel design. Available for either battery or dynamo operation (with stand-light) they again use clever optical design to solve a problem.<br />
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Many high power LED rear bicycle lamps are very unpleasant to ride behind because the light comes from one small point. This also makes it difficult to judge how far away a bicycle is. The Philips solution is to light up a large race-track shaped area around the central reflector. There is a lot of light from the four high power LEDs, but it doesn't blind those who ride behind.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisWu2B0K_8aeVlrHW9B6_8sVh6i5pXyFeo-ctiEV-Ohk3I18xOd4stuFcNYLftB7tmnVyTGpL8VtdZHKE8bCZJhDNKQkyUaWfWlhkAO8kveFR6BDfsKDa2uPnGhDiIPoUPXK-pWjwe2Nu1/s1600/100_8418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisWu2B0K_8aeVlrHW9B6_8sVh6i5pXyFeo-ctiEV-Ohk3I18xOd4stuFcNYLftB7tmnVyTGpL8VtdZHKE8bCZJhDNKQkyUaWfWlhkAO8kveFR6BDfsKDa2uPnGhDiIPoUPXK-pWjwe2Nu1/s200/100_8418.JPG" width="183" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Professionally packaged</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
All these lights are good value at their price. We are happy to recommend them and to stock them in the webshop. These are great lights especially for those who will cycle away from areas with street lighting or who like to cycle fast and want to be able to see the road surface well when riding at night.<br />
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However, we also of course stock lower cost options. Even very low cost <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=105" target="_blank">front</a> and <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=226" target="_blank">rear</a> LED dynamo lights combined with our <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=131" target="_blank">lowest cost dynamo</a> provide effective and reliable lighting for usage in town with street lighting, or for riding at lower speeds in unlit areas.<br />
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For dynamo operation, any combination of the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=40_69" target="_blank">dynamo front lights and either dynamo or battery rear lights</a> that we sell can be used together, and they can be used with any standard 6 V 3 W dynamo including hub or side-wall dynamos.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqhe4wHY70vhQrZtH8knag3vJReaZisxvdRjf9VmtIG0o-d8V00NOEy4VtktykMn9oMbHWF7bVuTvgwg84pVpmh5Nb_nx5PRSGiqPJ7lFxOKgvrYMLkJiBgaX8wL2tBtc2fFSzpbxP-oy4/s1600/100_8721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqhe4wHY70vhQrZtH8knag3vJReaZisxvdRjf9VmtIG0o-d8V00NOEy4VtktykMn9oMbHWF7bVuTvgwg84pVpmh5Nb_nx5PRSGiqPJ7lFxOKgvrYMLkJiBgaX8wL2tBtc2fFSzpbxP-oy4/s200/100_8721.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_68&product_id=255" target="_blank">40 lux battery light</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>January 19 update</b><br />
The Philips 40 lux light now has <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_68&product_id=255" target="_blank">a battery powered counterpart</a>. Another superb light from Philips, offering what was an undreamt of amount of light just a few years ago, but at a bargain price.<br />
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Also, don't miss our article about <a href="http://blog.dutchbikebits.com/2012/01/selecting-and-installing-dynamo.html" target="_blank">selecting and installing dynamo lights</a>.<br />
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<b>2014 update</b><br />
Unfortunately, Philips stopped making their bicycle lights so we can no longer supply them (except for <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/manufacturer&manufacturer_id=35" target="_blank">a very few remaining items</a>). We now recommend the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40&product_id=59" target="_blank">B&M Cyo</a> and <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40&product_id=327" target="_blank">AXA Luxx 70 with USB output</a> as excellent dynamo front lights and the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40&product_id=60" target="_blank">B&M Secula</a> and <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/search&keyword=toplight&category_id=40" target="_blank">Toplight range</a> as a particularly good dynamo rear lights.<br />
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See <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=40" target="_blank">our full range of bicycle lights</a>.<br />
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="http://hembrow.eu/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-51746727073009438292011-11-24T03:02:00.000+01:002016-08-29T09:56:50.035+02:00Cycling fast through the puddles<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7xsRBPcrKfeSqVND_bOi-Q2sI0Jr4l5PYFF6Rr_85Z0rHaLpf1UVUxAIfyLKyvQwpuTGkioDr28RKu5YV1Kyk9CWxmtbkVSibhJVha0D9qVUnBzjGbc3KD4llDNR15eSZYvK5g7BeGAY/s1600/100_8453.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7xsRBPcrKfeSqVND_bOi-Q2sI0Jr4l5PYFF6Rr_85Z0rHaLpf1UVUxAIfyLKyvQwpuTGkioDr28RKu5YV1Kyk9CWxmtbkVSibhJVha0D9qVUnBzjGbc3KD4llDNR15eSZYvK5g7BeGAY/s400/100_8453.JPG" width="358" /></a></div>
I had to ride to the ice-skating rink this morning in time for a test ride of Steve Ellis' <a href="http://www.icebatracing.com/" target="_blank">ice-bats</a>. We get to use the ice only for a short period before the steady customers turn up, so that means travelling quite early. When I set off from home it was tipping down and also quite cold.<br />
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I wore <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=227" target="_blank">my rain cape</a> as I could put it on last minute and not have to change clothes. Some people may think that capes are not fashionable, but I'd answer that by saying that when riding a bike in heavy rain you're not on a cat-walk. Besides, with a cape you can wear any clothes that you like when cycling in the rain, and are not restricted to waterproof "cycling clothing". Also, you don't sweat in a cape like you can in waterproofs.<br />
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I wasn't the only person in a cape this morning. These two ladies were in front of me just as we all arrived together at the ice-skating rink. Both of them had also taken the sensible option of a cape to keep themselves warm and dry.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiT-Ii17UAISphLAy_-3pMT3eL1nF-bVp28t6nPueoxsRl4Jw_04Y-2ilKdhjWOU2oXRNBO9iJCtTeVTsP4qE_bxSzsuMKSnlkFgRuTBmPqfFN-u8faO9DBhVo-7I4o48trXZ4lIusLss/s1600/100_8453-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiT-Ii17UAISphLAy_-3pMT3eL1nF-bVp28t6nPueoxsRl4Jw_04Y-2ilKdhjWOU2oXRNBO9iJCtTeVTsP4qE_bxSzsuMKSnlkFgRuTBmPqfFN-u8faO9DBhVo-7I4o48trXZ4lIusLss/s200/100_8453-1.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
The slogan on the back of the woman on the right says "Today I ride fast through the puddles". It's part of a marketing campaign for a probiotic drink. There's a nice, and somewhat unusual, video which goes with the campaign:<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="253" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/xn5crElXgdU?rel=0" width="440"></iframe><br />
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Of course, when you ride through puddles you suffer not only from rain falling from above but also from water being sprayed towards you by your tyres. For riding comfortably in rain, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=43" target="_blank">mudguards and mudflaps</a> are essential. It's also worth thinking about puncture resistant tyres for winter. Our selection of <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=41_60" target="_blank">winter tyres</a> increase your chance of not having to stop when cycling in winter.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px;">If it wasn't for seeing these two ladies wearing capes this morning, and it reminding me of the video, it wouldn't have appeared on the blog. I'm not convinced personally of the value of taking probiotic dietary supplements and </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px;">I try to </span><a href="http://www.vegansociety.com/resources/animals/dairy-production.aspx" style="font-size: 11px;" target="_blank">avoid dairy products</a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px;">. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px;">The European Food Safety Authority has so far </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Probiotic#EFSA_opinions_of_probiotics" style="font-size: 11px;" target="_blank">rejected 260 claims from manufacturers</a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px;"> of these supplements.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px;">However, I'm rather positive about using rain-capes to keep you dry when cycling. They're not intended for sporty riding, but for everyday use they work magnificently to keep both your upper body and also your legs dry when riding in normal clothes. If you want to stay dry while riding fast through the puddles, consider buying the same good quality cape as I use, in </span><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=227" style="font-size: 11px;" target="_blank">our online shop, DutchBikeBits.com</a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px;">.</span>
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="http://hembrow.eu/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-12360707588638713102011-11-18T00:30:00.000+01:002016-08-29T09:56:55.940+02:00Marathon Winter tyres<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDLJd1ql0yIr276m_izxtxyj3ck9jIlHGtVTyoRLAFN8Zd9MYESIVVa38Gn6NIbAUYw7QfMvwvo8OT1EnYfN0gCR5Z8zTJZHRIycF5xIzdMpUZn3rJc6NSjX1oDx1-nnsvoNmtexPswVr-/s1600/100_8451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDLJd1ql0yIr276m_izxtxyj3ck9jIlHGtVTyoRLAFN8Zd9MYESIVVa38Gn6NIbAUYw7QfMvwvo8OT1EnYfN0gCR5Z8zTJZHRIycF5xIzdMpUZn3rJc6NSjX1oDx1-nnsvoNmtexPswVr-/s320/100_8451.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
Last winter, Judy fell on a patch of ice. It's not been cold enough for that yet this year, but none of want that experience.<br />
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To prevent this problem, we're using <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product%2Fproduct&product_id=63" target="_blank">Marathon Winter studded tyres</a> on the front wheels of our town bikes. Obviously both wheels provides better protection from falls, but the front wheel is most critical. If you lose traction with the front wheel of a bicycle then you lose the ability to balance and will fall very quickly.<br />
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It is best to fit the tyres before the ice sets in so that a few kilometres can be ridden on them on asphalt. This helps to seat the studs in the rubber so that they are less likely to come out later. The manufacturers recommend 60 km of riding on asphalt.<br />
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Of course, Marathon Winter tyres aren't only for town bikes. They're also available in sizes to fit mountain bikes and recumbents.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixS4Ualq2AlgR9LyRv6RhfiHZs-RJXR-4dQ2fvnlxJwaOb80VzU7fVZri0-j4Mlm3DDB8MED8-WqRxrToDWX8rb_LlyVWl7LkIGpk0ev704BYPyYKi8xb41aZ-u2cD__ULnd98dRMVlR_L/s1600/100_6340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixS4Ualq2AlgR9LyRv6RhfiHZs-RJXR-4dQ2fvnlxJwaOb80VzU7fVZri0-j4Mlm3DDB8MED8-WqRxrToDWX8rb_LlyVWl7LkIGpk0ev704BYPyYKi8xb41aZ-u2cD__ULnd98dRMVlR_L/s200/100_6340.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
I used one last winter on the back wheel of my Mango velomobile. This made a big different to safety as losing the rear wheel is the biggest danger with a tadpole (two wheels the front, one at the back) tricycle. If traction at the rear is lost then the trike turns due to the camber of the road and will likely flip over as it slides sideways into the kerb. By using a Marathon Winter on the rear of my Mango I could cycle with confidence not only within the city, where most cycle-paths are clear anyway. Rather, this meant I could continue to enjoy touring rides right out into the countryside.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLQdckFaXbXOPYKFYEpGNef-izRhieZ24sKL5CCfbRRyEpzxk-a8WkUuLfkXc6miElMe-4sJDjdcJtKk9Mwo3SiPFQq0L64WleDc0CBsHiBGCTMaVjviCXEdwHJGiC09R549BhvQoQK7II/s1600/100_5847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="371" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLQdckFaXbXOPYKFYEpGNef-izRhieZ24sKL5CCfbRRyEpzxk-a8WkUuLfkXc6miElMe-4sJDjdcJtKk9Mwo3SiPFQq0L64WleDc0CBsHiBGCTMaVjviCXEdwHJGiC09R549BhvQoQK7II/s640/100_5847.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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You can buy Marathon Winter tyres <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product%2Fproduct&product_id=63" target="_blank">in the Dutch Bike Bits Webshop</a>.
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="http://hembrow.eu/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-70662571013977321262011-08-22T19:00:00.000+02:002016-08-29T09:57:01.467+02:00Collecting stock<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHHlML7yWSBqpjbZjjZiottSpR7yDGNp9twbhCoN0ucJjdKJ6dbF_4WG4Ua_jO3js4S4PWnVRgNg6rnvYqEPvr1SJUUcoOh5tUMZSJLEkdtt4GOaRu0jecNYkpxDdbeOt6VA-SZAtdnRQ/s1600/100_7851.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHHlML7yWSBqpjbZjjZiottSpR7yDGNp9twbhCoN0ucJjdKJ6dbF_4WG4Ua_jO3js4S4PWnVRgNg6rnvYqEPvr1SJUUcoOh5tUMZSJLEkdtt4GOaRu0jecNYkpxDdbeOt6VA-SZAtdnRQ/s640/100_7851.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trailer's own weight plus twelve <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=38&product_id=54" target="_blank">frame mounted front racks</a> for stock together came to 42 kg</td></tr>
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Today I went to collect some more racks for <a href="http://dutchbikebits.com/" target="_blank">the shop</a>. I thought a bit about this. Pulling the trailer behind the Mango obviously slows it down. While the Mango itself is aerodynamic, the trailer is not. It's a bit like pulling a parachute.<br />
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It is difficult to calculate the effect due to aerodynamics, but the effect of the extra weight of the full trailer on the return trip is very easy to notice and that's easy to calculate by looking at <a href="http://hembrow.eu/personal/kreuzotter/espeed.htm#calc" target="_blank">the online calculator</a>. This shows that the effect of the weight alone takes about 5 km/h off my speed or, if you like, makes the journey feel like it is 15% "longer". However, the round-trip of 75 km still took well under three hours, which isn't so bad with a heavily loaded bike.<br />
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Here's a short film of the ride to the factory and back:<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/sp49vaOCPH8?rel=0" width="640"></iframe>
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="http://hembrow.eu/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-20018404761415320032011-08-21T09:01:00.000+02:002017-12-07T13:39:54.006+01:00Our Xtracycle - How your parcels start their journey<iframe allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" gesture="media" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/G6gstyQI1Pc" width="640"></iframe>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Explanatory captions on this video are only visible if you watch on a computer and not on a mobile device.</span></div>
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We've owned an Xtracycle Freeradical since 2003. Attached to a fairly basic mountain bike, it's done a lot of work in the past. However, for the last two years, our Xtracycle had fallen out of use. We both had become used to the comfort of <a href="http://blog.dutchbikebits.com/2009/01/anatomy-of-reliable-everyday-bicycle.html">Dutch town bikes</a>, and as a result, we were more likely to pile parcels high on our town bikes, sometimes pulling a trailer as well, than to ride the Xtracycle. <a href="http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2010/12/winters-here.html" target="_blank">When I rode it last December</a>, I noticed that the chain was worn and several things felt a little unpleasant, so work needed to be done.
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Recently the sales in <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/" target="_blank">our online shop</a> have built up and the option of moving all our parcels on the normal town bike had become quite unworkable. We needed a cargo bike again. Over the last few weeks I've done quite a few small jobs on the Xtracycle to get it in usable order once more.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFI2-aLkP7wf8DYQuLlDxrellrAJ3tPniYVmrIKnqh_8Et2F_hryWq84fzNJ8BP0Bzb4LcMomc3S72GAK56YZpkbv6TIVOfEkHVhG6RLgtHTqAf4FF1ayAHScYu_uvPP5dwDfOc_vH7KE/s1600/100_7459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="403" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFI2-aLkP7wf8DYQuLlDxrellrAJ3tPniYVmrIKnqh_8Et2F_hryWq84fzNJ8BP0Bzb4LcMomc3S72GAK56YZpkbv6TIVOfEkHVhG6RLgtHTqAf4FF1ayAHScYu_uvPP5dwDfOc_vH7KE/s640/100_7459.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
Fundamentally, much of what was "wrong" with our Xtracycle came down to it being a mountain bike with a thing bolted onto the back.
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Now I know that many people love their mountain bikes. There is no reason why they should not do so. Mountain biking is a fine sport. The problem isn't mountain bikes, or their riders, but the use of the wrong tool for the job. Mountain bikes are not particularly practical bicycles. MTB gearing is rather on the low side, which is fine for travelling through mud or up steep slopes, but not ideal around town. The sitting position is uncomfortably stretched out due to the long stem and straight handlebars. The high bottom bracket, useful when riding off-road, is a nuisance in town as it requires that one hops down off the saddle at stops. MTBs don't come with mudguards, chainguards or racks, which can be tricky to fit. A kickstand isn't fitted, and permanent fitting of lights is not straightforward. A practical bike needs to have nothing on it which must remove when you park.
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Many of the problems with using a mountain bike for everyday transport can be solved with suitable add-ons, and by doing this one can approach the concept of a <a href="http://blog.dutchbikebits.com/2009/01/anatomy-of-reliable-everyday-bicycle.html">practical Dutch everyday bike</a>, which comes fitted with everything you need for practical use without requiring work to be done.
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Some of the issues are tackled by the Xtracycle Freeradical add-on itself. It provides an oversized rack. If you also fit the <a href="http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2009/02/xtracycle-kick-back-review.html" target="_blank">Xtracycle specific kickstand</a> then that solves another problem as the bike can now stand upright without assistance. These two things we'd already done. However, the problems that remained with our Xtracycle were typical "MTB as town bike" problems, which have now been put to rest as well as possible.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJYLfpf0pZIzM3lvTBPampiGMVMIQbWPEB9IA9Ot0Fkt3K2SvodmFw5CPlX0Gs4I2LtP2nWX4t17FopcA0yZSf-O3rapqB7G5bpEMNHIxWPRL4BlhGMdyCivtl_Pg_Z2M7sDWgj2GylJA/s1600/100_7463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJYLfpf0pZIzM3lvTBPampiGMVMIQbWPEB9IA9Ot0Fkt3K2SvodmFw5CPlX0Gs4I2LtP2nWX4t17FopcA0yZSf-O3rapqB7G5bpEMNHIxWPRL4BlhGMdyCivtl_Pg_Z2M7sDWgj2GylJA/s200/100_7463.JPG" width="135" /></a></div>
For a start, the tyres. Knobbly tyres are designed for mud. They're also OK in snow. However (with just a few <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_58&product_id=101">exceptions</a>) they are inefficient and slow on smooth surfaces. Also, cheaper tyres are puncture prone. There are various add-on products available to try to reduce this problem, but far and away the most effective way of reducing the problem of punctures is to fit better quality tyres with a good anti-puncture layer. I chose the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_59&product_id=71">Schwalbe Marathon</a> tyre. It's not fast like a racing tyre, but it's faster than typical knobbly tyres, and puncture resistance is very good. This also makes the bike blissfully quieter to ride as you don't get the characteristic hum of a knobbly tyre on tarmac. While on the subject of wheels, another essential for everyday riding is to fit <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=48&product_id=74">mudguards (fenders)</a>. Because I don't like spray on my feet and shoes, I also fitted the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=48&product_id=176">larger and truly effective type of mudflap</a>.
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Only half a mudguard is fitted at the back. Sadly, my original model Freeradical had no really good way of mounting a rear mudguard. I understand that eyes for mounting a mudguard are provided on newer versions of the product.
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To achieve more comfort when riding the bike required changing the handlebar and stem and also the saddle. My handlebar and stem are a set which we already owned which is equivalent to <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=86">the combined handlebar and stem</a> in the webshop. This change brings the handlebars a lot closer so that we don't have to lean over so much when riding and the cargo is closer to the turning axis, so the bike is easier to control when heavy. Also, the ends of the bars turn backwards, which is much more comfortable for the wrists than a straight handlebar. The saddle is the same <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=48&product_id=182">wide sprung and comfortable</a> model as we'd already got on other bikes of ours, and as used by so many people who want comfort and practicality.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggnD-09bR1tK5vRhKdCsOkUKxu6AfYfMQfe1BdGuKHvN4sCNJ0IhNo6AaFZimwp6JoQa96blWLkPJh-PWCDElHTPxcn1FKhUQVf_IGBccYTqDnP6qheRa0_rxnDuKSEN07RM51D2thNpA/s1600/100_7725-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggnD-09bR1tK5vRhKdCsOkUKxu6AfYfMQfe1BdGuKHvN4sCNJ0IhNo6AaFZimwp6JoQa96blWLkPJh-PWCDElHTPxcn1FKhUQVf_IGBccYTqDnP6qheRa0_rxnDuKSEN07RM51D2thNpA/s200/100_7725-1.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Our Xtracycle is fitted with a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=38&product_id=53">Steco front rack</a> for extra capacity. This works very well, but it also makes the steering more likely to flop around when the bike is on its stand. For that reason I have fitted a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=38&product_id=150">steering damper</a> to the bike. I'd not used one before, but I find that it works very well with the rack. The handlebars no longer turn so much when the bike is parked, and so weight in the front is less likely to flip the whole thing over. It also has a benefit when riding as it tames the front end a little, which is helpful when there is a lot of weight on the rack.
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I've also fitted dynamo lights to our Xtracycle. They've a huge advantage over battery lights in that they are permanent, bolted on, part of the bike so don't have to be removed when you park and there are no batteries to be flat. This is essential for practicality.
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I'm using a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=65">Nordlicht dynamo</a> attached with a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=123">special bracket for the V-brake boss</a>, coupled with a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=105">Basta headlight</a> mounted on the light bracket built into the Steco rack. There are <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40_69&product_id=169">brighter headlights</a> for use on long rides in the countryside, but that's not what we use our Xtracycle for. For use in town, this provides more than enough light for a very reasonable price. The rear light is difficult with the Xtracycle. Again, there is no good place to attach a light to the Freeradical frame. I've opted for a DIY solution using an old battery-powered rear LED light adapted for dynamo use and attached to the bottom of my saddle.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFYNSvdyzijD08n__8vULJkLlGP2GqhLYLvIreeT1JEfEfEzpwKvjVblaqPzl9Ncts1Lyyy40l2WOphJNIdC8kszaxZCBDWOotxLIUxmFkiMxPpzkDJrPwfD5iP0oh7BwIdRYgd2QRA9c/s1600/xtralock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFYNSvdyzijD08n__8vULJkLlGP2GqhLYLvIreeT1JEfEfEzpwKvjVblaqPzl9Ncts1Lyyy40l2WOphJNIdC8kszaxZCBDWOotxLIUxmFkiMxPpzkDJrPwfD5iP0oh7BwIdRYgd2QRA9c/s200/xtralock.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
I would have liked to fit a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=49">Dutch style lock</a> to the bike. These are by far the most convenient and quick to use style of bike lock, but they don't fit with the Freeradical in place. Instead, I found a way of mounting an old D lock permanently on the bike. A hole drilled in the advertising board allows the D lock to be swung into the wheel. It also stays in place above the top tube while riding. It's not the highest security arrangement, but it's enough around here.
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The triple crankset (22/32/42 teeth) which was originally fitted to the mountain bike which we used as a donor has been replaced with a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=209" target="_blank">single speed crankset</a> with 46 teeth. This gives higher gears for a bit more speed in town.
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Finally, a bell. Of course, for a large bike there is just one choice - the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=48&product_id=114" target="_blank">80 mm Ding Dong bell</a>.
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And how has it turned out ? Well, now the bike is once again enjoyable to ride, and over the last few weeks since the work was done, it's been used several times.
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<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/"><img src="https://dutchbikebits.com/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;" /></a></center>
David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-81550946095974729702011-08-14T04:43:00.000+02:002016-08-29T09:57:15.105+02:00Tacx Jockey Wheels Long Term review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXg8s1WKYr_fdiJihZG2XtPrguwqcQx3w49EYrN5g_naa3c-6IwQB_NXW9kn401PZygrCM0-A68I2FLKEGSDB3bXRwL9KueYAtrrjDoCwiwdtr-kK1-0G3EHV03UEZqqiS8j_6_vJ6hyY/s1600/100_7819.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXg8s1WKYr_fdiJihZG2XtPrguwqcQx3w49EYrN5g_naa3c-6IwQB_NXW9kn401PZygrCM0-A68I2FLKEGSDB3bXRwL9KueYAtrrjDoCwiwdtr-kK1-0G3EHV03UEZqqiS8j_6_vJ6hyY/s400/100_7819.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Back in 1998, the jockey wheels in the derailleur of my <a href="http://www.hembrow.eu/personal/speedross.html" target="_blank">recumbent bike of the time</a> were worn. The derailleur still functioned, but there was noise from these very small parts on the bike. A friend suggested that I try Tacx replacement jockey wheels which he'd found made a significant difference to reliability of his mountain bike.
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I bought a pair, installed them in the derailleur I was using and rode on. Problem solved.
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A few years later, the first derailleur was damaged and I moved the to another derailleur on <a href="http://www.hembrow.eu/personal/pashleypdq.html" target="_blank">a different bike</a>. Time passed. I rode a lot of km, made many tours, including <a href="http://hembrow.eu/lejog/triplog.html" target="_blank">Land's End to John o'Groats</a> with these jockey wheels spinning behind me the entire time. Everything worked and I forgot about them.
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Last year, the derailleur on that bike also became damaged and I replaced it. When I took the old derailleur off, I found my tacx jockey wheels again. They didn't fit in the more modern replacement derailleur (<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=206" target="_blank">new ones do</a>), but as they still seemed OK I kept them in case they were useful later. This week I decided to take a closer look at them:
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One has a little play in the bearing, which makes a bit of a gritty noise. The other still seems to be perfect. They still spin better than standard wheels in almost any new derailleur. The worn look on the outside is largely due to the teeth having worn away. However, teeth on jockey wheels aren't really that important. Some old derailleurs had <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/88401965@N00/5564788867/" target="_blank">round jockey wheels without teeth</a>, but they still worked as derailleurs.
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Needless to say, I'm impressed by the longevity. Mine were the lower cost type with the normal bearings. Now there are variations with stainless steel and ceramic bearings. Good quality products like this are exactly the sort of thing we set <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/" target="_blank">our shop</a> up to sell. We don't like gimmicks. We like products which are reliable and long lasting.
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If you've got worn jockey wheels in a derailleur, it's a lot cheaper to replace just the wheels than the entire derailleur. We now sell <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=206" target="_blank">a selection of different types</a> to fit most derailleurs.
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<small><small>I'm now testing ceramic Tacx jockey wheel in the Mango. While my old ones look odd with the teeth missing, I don't think it's that important. I've got one very old derailleur with round jockey wheels which never had any teeth at all.</small></small>
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="http://hembrow.eu/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-7660422868392212542011-06-01T09:01:00.000+02:002016-08-29T09:57:23.283+02:00Choosing between inner tubes and pumps<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikmM4zexkZSxLl01eTh9pZCFfprNd2xQEpaJmaRZrhlDV2qK50yXLg-oiw5phJ1ZmeJLPCUxx87sRqen8Lxew3JNB24N-4o9TPuHtlgcyE0x0pwlXRkgdfkTl9x1ssoUrgLwPtpv7-RCs/s1600/100_7107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikmM4zexkZSxLl01eTh9pZCFfprNd2xQEpaJmaRZrhlDV2qK50yXLg-oiw5phJ1ZmeJLPCUxx87sRqen8Lxew3JNB24N-4o9TPuHtlgcyE0x0pwlXRkgdfkTl9x1ssoUrgLwPtpv7-RCs/s400/100_7107.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Few people pay much attention to inner tubes. They're a bit boring. You can't see them as you ride. Actually, it is quite reasonable that most people pay little attention to them, as most of the time the differences between quality inner tubes are slight, and for most people they don't matter.<br />
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However, there is a difference in the construction, and some are better for some purposes than others. I've currently got <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=41_52" target="_blank">three different inner tubes</a> in stock which are suitable for relatively narrow 20" (ETRTO 406) tyres. This is how they differ:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0EipuUqbyB_AtCcOX2tuGKRZ64G9RNdjuIDVszKX2VylQOs_x5jN_GZpWuBN3I8XBk-LLOoKA2K3DfPEcd8RDzY4oMhsduOPJPSLgWjSWoBSlV_BXWTyqRXrXK2jtVl_NvuI5-rj90aE/s1600/100_7108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0EipuUqbyB_AtCcOX2tuGKRZ64G9RNdjuIDVszKX2VylQOs_x5jN_GZpWuBN3I8XBk-LLOoKA2K3DfPEcd8RDzY4oMhsduOPJPSLgWjSWoBSlV_BXWTyqRXrXK2jtVl_NvuI5-rj90aE/s200/100_7108.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
The lightest of the bunch is the Schwalbe SV6A. These have a claimed weight on the packet of 65 g, and that's exactly what my kitchen scales say they weigh.<br />
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This inner tube is the lightest of the three, and also feels most supple. I have not tested rolling resistance with this inner tube, but if there's a difference you can expect this will be the best performer.<br />
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It will probably also lose pressure faster than the other options, so you'll need to pump up your tyres more often with this inner tube. Also, maybe it's less damage resistant too.<br />
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Reflecting its special status, the SV6A costs an extra €2.38 over the price of normal <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_52&product_id=102" target="_blank">Schwalbe inner tubes</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdNpX3ufZOXWXKgacGrTtdxTrp3a2nnfODn1aYlCyKzFSJDUaZWqFOkFwIhbTTSAJ04zruIYo9MALtTVgbq-rsa6UO4eZoe9Y3a4jQO3JimqJ6WwFFyQ22Pho4Pivn7nqOac_ZGzpxHgU/s1600/100_7109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdNpX3ufZOXWXKgacGrTtdxTrp3a2nnfODn1aYlCyKzFSJDUaZWqFOkFwIhbTTSAJ04zruIYo9MALtTVgbq-rsa6UO4eZoe9Y3a4jQO3JimqJ6WwFFyQ22Pho4Pivn7nqOac_ZGzpxHgU/s200/100_7109.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
The second lightest is also a Schwalbe - the SV6. It says nothing on the box about the weight, I found it to be 95 g.<br />
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This is a standard grade inner tube from a quality manufacturer. It's still actually quite a nice supple inner tube, and it's what I have in the <a href="http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2011/05/new-tyres-continental-sportcontact.html">front tyres of my Mango</a> at the moment.<br />
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Either this or the Continental are a good choice for everyday use.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFK6RczrJ9J3wAPJGGqRASZo0osgftM2cGuIA-mpplot7MWIk0KQFcyVNkjAldvb16zjqPd0JuJlmzXtn4BU95R9eWxXMImGVZjvyWBdlcg5HEr7LJtrgCLfjjKuMUZbSSjtTQg8LaVaw/s1600/100_7110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFK6RczrJ9J3wAPJGGqRASZo0osgftM2cGuIA-mpplot7MWIk0KQFcyVNkjAldvb16zjqPd0JuJlmzXtn4BU95R9eWxXMImGVZjvyWBdlcg5HEr7LJtrgCLfjjKuMUZbSSjtTQg8LaVaw/s200/100_7110.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
The heaviest of the three is the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_52&product_id=93" target="_blank">Continental Compact 20</a> inner tube. Continental make extra thin high performance inner tubes (akin to the SV6A) in other sizes, but not for 20" wheels.<br />
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This is again a standard inner tube from a quality manufacturer, which again means it is actually of good quality. According to my scales, it weighs 100 g, which is an irrelevant difference over the weight of the Schwalbe equivalent.<br />
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The construction of this inner tube is a bit different. The rubber feels thicker than the Schwalbe SV6, though given that they're about the same weight it obviously can't really be so different.<br />
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What is a little different is that the Continental is wider than the Schwalbes, even though it's only rates as being suitable for tyres up to 32 mm wide, while the Schwalbes are for tyres up to 40 mm wide. This makes it a little more difficult to fit into a narrow tyre. Continental also specify that their inner tube will also fit 451 size wheels, while Schwalbe suggest theirs will not.<br />
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Either this or the Schwalbe SV6 are a good choice for everyday use.<br />
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In practice, I find the Continental is a slightly awkward fit even within <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&manufacturer_id=21&product_id=145" target="_blank">Continental's own 28mm wide tyres</a>. It's just a bit too wide, and makes it more difficult to fit the tyres. As a result, I'm using the Schwalbe SV6 in those tyres at the moment. If I were racing, I'd use the SV6A as it is slightly lighter, and more importantly it is reckoned that due to its flexibility it will roll a little better. I'm using a Continental inner tube in my <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&manufacturer_id=14&product_id=134" target="_blank">rear tyre</a>, which is a bit wider than they recommend, but here it seems a good fit. I also carry a Continental as one of my spares spare (I have two for personal use).<br />
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I also weighed a few no-name inner tubes for the same wheel size. Most weighed about 130 g, but one was 200 g - a surprising difference. There is almost certainly a difference in performance between such an inner tube and those from the better manufacturers.<br />
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<b>Valve types</b><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifW65IkxaNokfXGJvfFMUJbOdoJf9EUdiBDgX19boBslkkmLrtVbC_XJul3uHC6I0S1E_9W5bfx8lHt6Ro92591NRf5n1KN4h3fn2PdqeSG2jtLDJQurG5AXMTz3H0HnVF7hSEd8U8FRc/s1600/100_7216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifW65IkxaNokfXGJvfFMUJbOdoJf9EUdiBDgX19boBslkkmLrtVbC_XJul3uHC6I0S1E_9W5bfx8lHt6Ro92591NRf5n1KN4h3fn2PdqeSG2jtLDJQurG5AXMTz3H0HnVF7hSEd8U8FRc/s200/100_7216.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Presta / French / HP valve</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Another difference between tubes on offer is the type of valve in use. Some people have very strong feelings one way or another. It can be nearly a religious issue. However, I think each has its place<br />
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For racing, when you might actually care whether the pressure in your tyres is up to the maximum and want to measure them, there is an advantage with the Presta ("French") valve rather than the Schrader (car type) or Dunlop (also known as Dutch or English) valves. Also, as everyone else will be using these, if you borrow a pump it will already be set up to fit these valves.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1NtAiKoWD2DhxaT3_9YdoDPxsDsq14NrokbUxK0j2sLKhPbtWk-QPqz6PyfR0d3LOJpAZ0T_hfhOYZzPcHq6881VR54wlUDaz9EslFXLRKKb14mnqDJeUt4EqqfKnz0wLhNvoGah2nvc/s1600/100_7222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="157" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1NtAiKoWD2DhxaT3_9YdoDPxsDsq14NrokbUxK0j2sLKhPbtWk-QPqz6PyfR0d3LOJpAZ0T_hfhOYZzPcHq6881VR54wlUDaz9EslFXLRKKb14mnqDJeUt4EqqfKnz0wLhNvoGah2nvc/s200/100_7222.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dunlop / Woods / Dutch valve</td></tr>
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However, unless there is a special reason to choose, all three types keep the air in equally well, so most of the time it's best to use what's convenient and what you're used to.<br />
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In the Netherlands, there are sometimes publicly accessible pumps designed to accommodate the Dunlop valve, and you can buy very <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=174">well priced floor-standing pumps</a> which make pumping these up very easy indeed. The perfect choice for everyday cycling.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkfdTMASiIhZ-lXxMqS4y-sdjZaaTNzH5IYFk-aWMlkC_drHZq8pFvW16pQowjsuOey41th2ad_D8kd0Jluk5eSy_BbGd_6pToDN5o1iowWJnf0eZSbJB2BeVSfouxAM_8OadiiCk-Lfg/s1600/100_7218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="147" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkfdTMASiIhZ-lXxMqS4y-sdjZaaTNzH5IYFk-aWMlkC_drHZq8pFvW16pQowjsuOey41th2ad_D8kd0Jluk5eSy_BbGd_6pToDN5o1iowWJnf0eZSbJB2BeVSfouxAM_8OadiiCk-Lfg/s200/100_7218.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Schrader / Car valve</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I use Presta valves for sportier bikes and Dunlop valves for our town bikes.<br />
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As much as possible, I avoid the Schrader type as they're most difficult to push the pump on and off, and due to the larger area of pressure they're the type which most often gives problems with keeping the pump head on the valve while pumping.<br />
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However, I might feel differently if this was the most commonly used valve type where I lived as the convenience would then be on the side of the Schrader. In the US, these seem to be the most popular valves in use so they perhaps make sense for everyday cycling.<br />
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<b>Fitting Presta valves in Schrader rims</b><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/127_6376-500x500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/127_6376-500x500.JPG" height="200" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.3333339691162px; text-align: center;">Adaptor to use <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/tyres-and-inner-tubes/presta-valve-schrader-rim-adaptor" target="_blank">presta valves in<br />schrader rims</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For many people, including myself, the Presta valve is the best choice for higher performance bikes. However many wheel rims come ready drilled for the larger Dunlop and Schrader valves. It's common for people to use Presta valves in such rims and despite the difference in diameter it usually doesn't cause a problem, but inner tubes are sometimes damaged when abused in this way. For this reason, we now sell <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/tyres-and-inner-tubes/presta-valve-schrader-rim-adaptor">an adaptor to convert between valve sizes</a>. This fills the larger hole in the rim and makes it safe to use Presta valves.<br />
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<b>Pumps</b><br />
Some of you might have noticed that for a long time now we've had a bike parts and accessories shop which didn't sell any bicycle pumps. I've now added <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=42_66" target="_blank">two floor-standing pumps</a> to the shop website, including one which is light enough to take along with you, if a little bulky. However we still don't have a truly portable small pump.<br />
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They seem an obvious thing to have, so why not ? The problem is finding a product which we can trust ourselves. We said from the beginning that we'd only list things that we either already use ourselves, or that we'd happily use ourselves. This is what we're sticking to.<br />
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One pump which we don't recommend and won't be selling is the SKS Airboy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRW3bRXeQy5BGJIcQ-yT7TipUb_tZl_fef7ymp7WkZ_zWYp1nA5SSdbhPv-2uWsqtPdQoyIVjAJ6P0YTwQambT2y5ToLrpU-ELU3QqOlJV6FwJ5LOSnt8NESNpQVgOTo0vQ97BVNIbqI8/s1600/100_7206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="125" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRW3bRXeQy5BGJIcQ-yT7TipUb_tZl_fef7ymp7WkZ_zWYp1nA5SSdbhPv-2uWsqtPdQoyIVjAJ6P0YTwQambT2y5ToLrpU-ELU3QqOlJV6FwJ5LOSnt8NESNpQVgOTo0vQ97BVNIbqI8/s400/100_7206.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SKS Airboy. Don't buy this, even for just £1.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I bought my "Airboy" at the Mildenhall Rally, probably ten years ago. It cost me the grand sum of one pound. At the time I thought this was a bargain. However, it's too flawed to be useful. It has a double headed design with one side for Presta or Dunlop valves and the other side for Schrader. The pump relies on air pressure to keep a small rubber ball in a position to block the pump head that you're not using.<br />
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There are a number of problems with this idea. Usually, this means you can only pump upwards as initially gravity has to put the rubber ball in place. That may not sound like a big issue, but it becomes one as soon as you try pumping up tyres on a bike with laden panniers or a coat guard. However, the problems go beyond this issue. The heads don't fit well on valve stems for any of the three types of valve, and it's impossible to pump tyres up to an adequate pressure without the pump popping off the stem.<br />
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This problem hit me a few weeks ago when I got a puncture on a ride. Before leaving I'd picked up a pump to take with me, but not until I got the puncture did I discover it was this pump. At first I thought it would be OK, as in the past, I'd managed to get just enough air into a tyre with this to at least ride to a bike shop, but not this time. I had to walk a distance and ended up buying a working pump at a bike shop.<br />
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Anyway, I bought it ten years ago, so why am I writing about it now ? You can still buy these ! I've seen the exact same model for sale this year. To double the insult, in the last few days I accidentally bought another pump with exactly the same problems. We need something sensible and usable in the shop, so I added what seemed to be a well speced, but also well priced pump to an order from one of our suppliers. When it arrived, it turned out to be an SKS under a different name, with a variation on the same kind of head. It has exactly the same issues as the older one, plus a new problem: A spring works against you for almost half the stroke, making it difficult to achieve much pressure even if the pump would stay on the valve.<br />
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SKS used to be a very good name for pumps. I've a few old ones which work very well, and I'm sure they also still produce good models. However, I'm currently waiting for a different manufacturer's pump to turn up from a supplier. It's not fancy and expensive, because portable pumps tend to get damaged or lost. But if it works well it will appear on the shop website in a few days.<br />
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="http://hembrow.eu/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-89173081152195934602011-05-21T01:30:00.000+02:002017-10-30T15:14:18.896+01:00Continental SportContact tyre<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyeTTN_DodiDfM6uGZ6k8CmRswu1olqUNwhj3ff2ej4Q-_OiDEUexDBaTw0Xiw1E0FYuQdrLdXsGgdaUgox9AiFOiJ2M_FB8o6DM8RWylYgtJsPyKs8PdM8dt22UlOs93fbuJjKELBr6Y/s1600/100_7175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyeTTN_DodiDfM6uGZ6k8CmRswu1olqUNwhj3ff2ej4Q-_OiDEUexDBaTw0Xiw1E0FYuQdrLdXsGgdaUgox9AiFOiJ2M_FB8o6DM8RWylYgtJsPyKs8PdM8dt22UlOs93fbuJjKELBr6Y/s200/100_7175.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm now trying Continental's<br />
SportContact tyres. These will<br />
stand up better to everyday use.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For a few months now I've been riding with Continental Grand Prix tyres on the front of my Mango. They're lovely lightweight and fast tyres, but unfortunately I have to say that they've not really worked out, at least on this bike. I used my pair <a href="http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2010/10/lelystad-enkhuizen-lelystad-time-trial.html">briefly last year</a> before removing them for winter, and re-fitted them only about a month ago. They've been used for about 800 km, which is not all that impressive.<br />
<br />
The main problem, I think, is that they are simply not intended for use on a fast tricycle like the Mango. Sideways forces, especially when braking, are too much for them. On a two-wheeler it isn't possible to put such a sideways force on a tyre, nor to brake with a considerable sideways force on the front wheels without instantly falling off. The rubber was lost right outside our home, as I rode in quickly. A touch on the brakes, the wheel on the inside of the turn was in a skid, and there was a smell of rubber.<br />
<br />
Even if I'd not had this problem, I was already planning to replace the tyres. Both Grand-Prix tyres already had cuts in them presumely due to small stones or pieces of glass (I didn't find the cause). This all happened a bit too soon for a practical tyre.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO9vCLwTB8xkq6cpAuDSF6GyMujUYbmEFM1qbA3EBjNxmKInMu8j-Xv9DYdw-Jv-LPVxq9VtTX0SO177OsvD4SXoRDiM4oAxxIrO67mchfsAUWBWUCqG1jQs0sdS2X5fi4ecusREhFQCA/s1600/100_7183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO9vCLwTB8xkq6cpAuDSF6GyMujUYbmEFM1qbA3EBjNxmKInMu8j-Xv9DYdw-Jv-LPVxq9VtTX0SO177OsvD4SXoRDiM4oAxxIrO67mchfsAUWBWUCqG1jQs0sdS2X5fi4ecusREhFQCA/s200/100_7183.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Continental's Grand Prix tyres are<br />
fast, but don't like high speed<br />
cornering and braking with a<br />
velomobile.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I've not given up on Continental, but have replaced the Grand-Prix with the Continental SportContact. These are the same size, 28-406, but they are designed for everyday use. They weigh a bit more, have a bit more rubber, have the "SafetySystem" anti-puncture protection, sidewall reflectors, and a lower cost. they're also still supposed to be fast. It sounds like a promising combination, so I'll see how I get on with them over the next few months (The Sport Contact was a very good tyre - it's now been replaced by the <a href="https://www.dutchbikebits.com/continental-contact-speed-tyre" target="_blank">Contact Sport</a>).<br />
<br />
The advertised weight for the SportContact in this size is 295 g, however mine were actually a little lighter at about 270 and 280 g each.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWIfAXlY4sFQL5mZBiq5HaynYw43AKa9vv0K1PLLBFepiRqxHANyIVdAqQaWtJH090wmP-oYAxB4d6O4GqZZ19hsu475W4haXk2N1jr1zGRz7JblvRV-Wrc7nCESqZ5x_YlAKNyYQYUgM/s1600/100_7185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWIfAXlY4sFQL5mZBiq5HaynYw43AKa9vv0K1PLLBFepiRqxHANyIVdAqQaWtJH090wmP-oYAxB4d6O4GqZZ19hsu475W4haXk2N1jr1zGRz7JblvRV-Wrc7nCESqZ5x_YlAKNyYQYUgM/s320/100_7185.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New tyres fitted and ready to go, on a cycle path wide<br />
enough that riding an unusual bike is never a problem.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One very nice thing about both the SportContact and the Grand-Prix is that both are easily mounted on and removed from the rim without tools, and both sit well on the rim and run true straight away. This can be quite difficult to achieve with some tyres.<br />
<br />
The maximum pressure stated on the side-wall on the SportContact is 6 bar ( 85 psi ), but the accompanying paperwork attached to the tyre says 7 bar ( 102 psi ). I'm using the higher pressure. I have suspension so don't need the tyres to contribute too much to comfort, and they'll roll faster at the higher pressure.<br />
<br />
My rear tyre remains a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_58&product_id=134" target="_blank">Schwalbe Marathon Racer</a>. This still barely looks run-in. Actually, it wouldn't have been a bad choice for the front wheels as well.<br />
<br />
<b>Update 2016</b><br />
When <a href="http://www.aviewfromthecyclepath.com/2016/07/a-tour-two-tenth-anniversaries-and-very.html" target="_blank">my daughter and her boyfriend went touring</a>, they used Continental SportContact tyres.<br />
<br />
<small><small>Tyres and tubes and other nice stuff can be bought at <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=41" target="_blank">our webshop</a>.</small></small>
<br />
<center>
<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/"><img src="https://dutchbikebits.com/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;" /></a></center>
David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-49278355318044915462011-03-21T08:30:00.000+01:002016-08-29T09:57:34.840+02:00A touring toolkit<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ20ZF-sshf5ybzy0ZkpGF-ppKqtyGNqaiKvYNOWRWvQ78gJmTj8gYl2VGqsUKrwXk_YEghq_5pUEOjnT_Iubols4Z3Fl2UHCTs_dzipnu3Xn4-KTJeQjXXsNwEPefFzog1hKbreZvQXg/s1600/100_6647.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571714462880823650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ20ZF-sshf5ybzy0ZkpGF-ppKqtyGNqaiKvYNOWRWvQ78gJmTj8gYl2VGqsUKrwXk_YEghq_5pUEOjnT_Iubols4Z3Fl2UHCTs_dzipnu3Xn4-KTJeQjXXsNwEPefFzog1hKbreZvQXg/s320/100_6647.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 320px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 254px;" /></a>Unless accompanied by a car carrying equipment, cycle tourists need to be self sufficient to some extent. You can't predict when breakdowns will occur. Obviously what tools you carry with you depends on how far you're going and what you think you'll need. Weight is always an issue.<br />
<br />
Unless I'm just riding into town and back, I always carry tools with me. A few days ago I decided it was once again time to check that the contents of my tool-kit still made sense. A few items had been used up, like <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=136" target="_blank">patches</a>, and a few tools needed to change for my new bike.<br />
<br />
Everyone travelling any distance will surely carry a pump and <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=41_52" target="_blank">spare inner tubes</a>. However, other things are also useful to have. Even on shorter rides, the walk home or to the nearest bike shop can take quite some time, but when riding longer distances and if you may be a longer distance from "civilization" then it's even more important to be well prepared.<br />
<br />
At the moment, my toolkit contains the following:<br />
<ul>
<li>Multi-tool. This is actually the only new thing in my tool-kit. A <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=133" target="_blank">Beto multi-tool</a>. It includes all the sizes of spanner, screw-driver and Allen key which I may need. Previously I had to carry more than one such tool to cover everything.</li>
<li>In the past I also carried a separate <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=128">chain tool</a>, however my new multi-tool includes one, so that saves a bit more weight.<br />
</li>
<li>The puncture repair kit is a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=135" target="_blank">Rema Tip-Top kit</a>. I've used these for years as they have, in my opinion, the best quality patches. This one has been part of my kit for years, but is newly stocked with <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=136" target="_blank">patches</a> and <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=137" target="_blank">glue</a>.</li>
<li>When removing and refitting tyres, it is best to do so without using tyre levers as they can damage the tube further. However, if you have tight fitting tyres, or you find yourself doing the work with cold and wet fingers then a good set of tyre levers are well worth having. The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=72" target="_blank">Schwalbe tyre levers</a> are well shaped, and wider than most, which minimises the risk of damage. I've had this set for years and they work well.</li>
<li>Well made wheels shouldn't go out of true in normal use. However, accidents happen and I like to be prepared. <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=67" target="_blank">Spokey Spoke Keys</a> are perhaps the lightest weight good quality spoke key. Mine has had a lot of use over the years, both building wheels at home as well as straightening them on tour. Usually in order to keep moving with a single broken spoke you merely need to slightly loosen off the two spokes either side of that which is broken so that the wheel straightens out. However, carrying a few spare spokes of the correct size means that replacements can be installed and the wheel can be made perfect again quite quickly.</li>
<li>A little duct tape wound onto a stick, some bendable wire, and a few zip-ties don't weigh much and don't cost much. However, they can be used for many repairs. In the past I've used tape to hold together broken lights, zip-ties to affix mudguards and wire to keep on a heavily loaded <a href="http://hembrow.eu/lejog/triplog.html#5" target="_blank">rack</a>.</li>
<li>The white "paper" in my toolkit is actually cut out of a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyvek" target="_blank">Tyvek</a> junk mail envelope. It cost nothing and weighs almost nothing, but it is strong enough to make an excellent "boot" to put between inner tube and tyre in the event of a bad cut.</li>
<li>A pocket knife includes a few tools that the others don't have - such as scissors to cut the Tyvek, a sharp knife which can be used for a range of things, and a bottle opener which is rather a nice thing to have with you for a beer at the end of a long day.</li>
</ul>
Things not shown in the photo include the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=41_52" target="_blank">inner tubes</a> (I carry two, and do any puncture repairs needed at the end of the day if possible), a spare <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=41_53">folding tyre</a> in case of damage to a tyre, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42_54&product_id=127">chain links</a> to join a broken chain, and <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42_54&product_id=96">a spare brake cable</a>. Of course, I also carry a pump.<br />
<br />
Different people have different ideas, of course, and some like to travel lighter than others. We've put <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=42_54" target="_blank">our suggestions for a touring toolkits in a special section of our webshop</a>.
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="http://hembrow.eu/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-11961461487410837652011-03-16T08:01:00.000+01:002016-08-29T09:57:40.654+02:00Kick Stands and Tyre Pressures<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=119" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrNFpxsuA_LPIZs9TOMtFOXHyneIZ-a_Xsa3fEpTI55-lBjKQeCmTgdIk1XTX3nde3nvrshs1Y4PA7DdEi3T1cIlxk4TiUCcWqkcKBGLuuRJjmZdPJoOmV0WjQCr3GSUyCWOuqxHx4vQ/s200/100_6883.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=119" target="_blank">Spanninga Easy</a> 30 mm version</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The kickstand failed on one of our <a href="http://hembrow.eu/cycling/" target="_blank">rental bikes</a> at the end of last year.<br />
<br />
A bicycle which falls over unless leant on something is a nuisance, even just in storage, let alone in use. Leaning on brick walls causes damage to the bike. Other surfaces can be damaged by the bike. Therefore, I've replaced the broken part with our favourite type of single sided stand, the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=119" target="_blank">Spanninga Easy</a> kick-stand. This is a long stand which is sturdy enough that it will support quite heavily laden bicycles safely.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFvwewBl022nrN7htW0jZzpYPdJrCrbWG1v1L5vcDIgmgMdz6GhyphenhyphenMQJGlMydiIjlJKDw3ILi7XRuMi5jg3pBdWz1DckJkMffxgyMZ_9mAZZ2JDHc95fkUjaQyXoQW3-Jj-ULQ3_QqDDM/s1600/100_6885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFvwewBl022nrN7htW0jZzpYPdJrCrbWG1v1L5vcDIgmgMdz6GhyphenhyphenMQJGlMydiIjlJKDw3ILi7XRuMi5jg3pBdWz1DckJkMffxgyMZ_9mAZZ2JDHc95fkUjaQyXoQW3-Jj-ULQ3_QqDDM/s200/100_6885.JPG" width="200" /></a>Luckily, with most bikes, fitting a kickstand is an exceptionally easy job to do. It fits to the bracket provided as part of the frame, with one bolt just in front of the rear wheel, and just a single tool is required to do this - an 8 mm Allen Key.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPbCTjKjIeP6Tyn0G_GPXExrVTg_wieLBeSKzrlxcAiFVM4WdIlN5yjOK8SDMFe-FbW1SS74Q4u4a7LerYvrcA7QEJzcYn-kLQ_GOUvciSPJ44lFZmAJ6lkdSX77TfWiDWdSppXWMwjkk/s1600/100_6887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPbCTjKjIeP6Tyn0G_GPXExrVTg_wieLBeSKzrlxcAiFVM4WdIlN5yjOK8SDMFe-FbW1SS74Q4u4a7LerYvrcA7QEJzcYn-kLQ_GOUvciSPJ44lFZmAJ6lkdSX77TfWiDWdSppXWMwjkk/s200/100_6887.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
The stand simply has to be held in position with one hand, while the bolt is done up with the other. It takes just a couple of minutes to do.<br />
<br />
It's a good idea to put a little grease on the thread of the bolt so that it won't seize up over time, and to put some on the mechanism of the kickstand as well to make it run a bit smoother. <br />
Most bikes use the "30 mm" version of the stand. Dimensions of both variants are <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=119" target="_blank">in the web shop</a>.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfjofGKiTDdvGiFjyAherFT63_lD04kArfCv-FpQksPqtE4_qqSN9MKzAjmqWf58NoJNyMRKaFlkTSB-BBzaf67dSoCLrNn0ozFRhhrKpDypgYdY_y7Tyk9QJkad6vM_M4_9WdPRxfgy4/s1600/100_6889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfjofGKiTDdvGiFjyAherFT63_lD04kArfCv-FpQksPqtE4_qqSN9MKzAjmqWf58NoJNyMRKaFlkTSB-BBzaf67dSoCLrNn0ozFRhhrKpDypgYdY_y7Tyk9QJkad6vM_M4_9WdPRxfgy4/s400/100_6889.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bike with working kick-stand, so which no longer has to be leaned on something.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>And now something about tyre pressure and tyre choice...</b><br />
<br />
The bike in the photos above is fitted with the same tyres as I've currently got on my <a href="http://hembrow.blogspot.com/search/label/sinner%20mango">Mango</a> for winter commuting - the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=62">Schwalbe Marathon Plus</a>. The great advantage of these tyres is that they are virtually impossible to puncture. As a result, they're our choice for most of our bikes, most of the time. If you prefer riding to repairing punctures, these are the tyres to go for.<br />
<br />
They're also quite fast tyres... but only if pumped up quite hard. I realised on Sunday morning that after months of riding the narrow Marathon Plus tyres on the front wheels of my Mango were well under the maximum recommended pressure of 6.5 bar ( 100 psi ). In fact, they'd got down to about 5 bar ( 75 psi ) which is low enough that they roll much worse. I'd been disappointed by my speed of late, but of course pumping the tyres up to the recommended pressure restored their previous performance.<br />
<br />
It's one thing to have to stop and fix a puncture in the middle of the summer when it's warm and the sun is shining, but something else altogether in the winter when it's dark and cold. That's why I use them especially in the winter.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5388564014174344904" name="sensibletyres"></a><br />
<b>But now it's just about Spring</b>... and Summer is around the corner. This time of year, punctures are less likely, and in any case I don't quite so much if I get them. Soon, I'll take the Marathon Plus tyres back off my Mango and replace them with something which is a little more fun to ride with. For everyday summer use, I intend to switch to the the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_53&product_id=134" target="_blank">Marathon Racer</a>. They still have a puncture resistant layer, so punctures should at the least be rare in summer conditions, but it's a much thinner one making them lighter and faster rolling than the Marathon Plus. They're well suited for everyday riding.<br />
<br />
For racing, I've a pair of only slightly worn in <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=94" target="_blank">Continental Grand Prix</a> tyres for the front, or perhaps <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=139" target="_blank">Stelvio</a> or <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=130" target="_blank">Durano</a>. These are all nice fast rolling, narrow, durable, puncture resistant and light weight tyres with decent grip on the road, and should work well combined with a Marathon Racer on the rear.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtn0O2053ibf-XnvFOL4zNNOQdou5qhE1NbFeUIqlfvcT_dY5PyBbJIwz95r1LLHHSdppgj0Woa3UQGXcr1FiUtNM-S3qGfnKtE79-sTQHUnCoR4cX8NaUtoll4RKY0czZEOPpUaemdGY/s1600/060815l_s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtn0O2053ibf-XnvFOL4zNNOQdou5qhE1NbFeUIqlfvcT_dY5PyBbJIwz95r1LLHHSdppgj0Woa3UQGXcr1FiUtNM-S3qGfnKtE79-sTQHUnCoR4cX8NaUtoll4RKY0czZEOPpUaemdGY/s200/060815l_s.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Repairing a puncture in a<br />
Comp Pool which I fitted<br />
to Judy's bike</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
However, I've also some more unusual tyres which I might use again, but only if the right opportunity presents itself: Three Avocet Fasgrip tyres. These are a real <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curate's_egg" target="_blank">curate's egg</a> of a tyre. They're fast, they're durable, but they have a magnetic attraction for sharp objects on the road so you get lots of punctures. The lightest sprinkling of rain results in no grip whatsoever, and even more punctures. I don't sell these. I don't think I could live with myself if I did. However, a colleague of mine at the Ligfietsgarage sold them to me personally (they don't sell them to the public either), describing them as "just like the Tioga Comp Pool". I should have taken this as a warning, but of course I'm a glutton for punishment so I instead took it as a recommendation. He was absolutely right. They really are <i>just</i> the same. I should have known what I was letting myself in for. But with both of these tyres there's a pay-off in the right conditions in that they do genuinely have low rolling resistance - so long, of course, as they're pumped up to their recommended pressures, plus a bit more if you're really daring... I <a href="http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2010/06/cyclevision-2010.html">raced with the Avocet tyres</a> last year.<br />
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<small><small>Tioga's Comp Pool is long out of production. I thought the Avocet was out of production too but it's still <a href="http://www.avocet.com/tirepages/carbon12.html" target="_blank">on the manufacturer's website</a>. Occasionally someone comes out with a new tyre which is described as "just like the no longer available Tioga Comp Pool". Sensible people run away when this comparison is made... Speed without such compromises comes from the more sensible tyres which <a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3102538965694240940#sensibletyres">I mentioned earlier</a>.</small></small>
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="http://hembrow.eu/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-40332148289382172572010-11-18T21:00:00.000+01:002016-08-29T09:57:46.441+02:00Testing and recording bicycle bells<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguOJ9mFVipiiGdMtk_tZ6U6nwtY-iiSM1l-RBSioN7WjOFkLBBO6xWTdF6rNOu-9lcz5IblaMFBOOp-bFiWOp9OD_ULCP6OuvffaNfPV8M4QB1ia3xjGMKDe31Mtu6SjOv77rxyQhk6qI/s1600/100_5769.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540820645780679298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguOJ9mFVipiiGdMtk_tZ6U6nwtY-iiSM1l-RBSioN7WjOFkLBBO6xWTdF6rNOu-9lcz5IblaMFBOOp-bFiWOp9OD_ULCP6OuvffaNfPV8M4QB1ia3xjGMKDe31Mtu6SjOv77rxyQhk6qI/s400/100_5769.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 296px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>In most countries of the world it's a legal requirement to have a method of warning people that you are approaching on a bike. In some countries, such as the UK, the human voice is considered to be adequate. In other countries, such as the Netherlands, a bell is a legal requirement on a bicycle.<br />
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I've got a bunch of bicycle bells here at the moment as we've wanted for some time to have these <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=49" target="_blank">available in the webshop</a>, and as with other things <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/" target="_blank">in the shop</a>, I've specifically bought in those that we like. However, rather than just listing the bells, I decided we should do this well. Let's test them to find out how loud they are, and also have sound samples so that people can hear what the bells sound like. And here are the results, ranked in order of how loud they are from one metre away, and with recordings of each bell. Click on their pictures if you'd like to buy them:<br />
<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" style="text-align: left; width: 100%;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=114" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540820991229293234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimyidPAzgUpyZ85yVpVSdQeklAvksXyRHwVBmJHfo8uLvg78oxV99DaGEYLdqIKSv_1qATu2vyN-n7Y6ZFJV0f927PDGWfHLRAWVFWEA_lk7c-ZYJH5v8ESH34Fj6sJxwepCO5LFQqSnA/s200/100_5773.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 78px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 100px;" /></a></td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=114" target="_blank">Widek 80 mm Ding Dong bell (€9.88)</a><br />
<embed flashvars="audioUrl=http://hembrow.eu/sounds/dingdong.mp3" height="27" quality="best" src="http://www.hembrow.eu/audio-player.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="200"></embed></td><td>106 dBA</td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=115" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540820993145624882" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO4ZRFjEeflEawP2W4yRZdVwJSanTLKARhON2K6ivmvJijhBQOTTg0tvCgxwAqibHpMv_Rpgkf63krANb_ezTM1zdUGDKAXqaxu1DV-roO-I9LLefphsRUaoRNU9e2YtUlYyDHI4ANAfg/s200/100_5774.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 89px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 100px;" /></a></td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=115" target="_blank">"Ping" bell (€2.50)</a><br />
<embed flashvars="audioUrl=http://hembrow.eu/sounds/ping.mp3" height="27" quality="best" src="http://www.hembrow.eu/audio-player.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="200"></embed></td><td>100 dBA</td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=117" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540821021731474866" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgItuzbbrmvxdJzZeDUoeO9ovW53U2mbJWg6dqfKXnd_cd06b-j2XccM1OTfYjwQroMks7fLqNQOFgm2nqKqHfb0c5A5ltT_rBU4himWXncqWkg_1V89G_GGJMIAuzGkQ4dX2OI83XAvFA/s200/100_5777.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 61px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 100px;" /></a></td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=117" target="_blank">Gazelle handlebar grip bell (€11.90)</a><br />
<embed flashvars="audioUrl=http://hembrow.eu/sounds/gazelle.mp3" height="27" quality="best" src="http://www.hembrow.eu/audio-player.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="200"></embed></td><td>98 dBA</td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=113" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540821004685539522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBR8vZi2w4NIgsL6Gm2radgiq9gri8I72WZQ9DRe0YgoC_vr_4ezw3A_oSx15t5GrBNSaRexpSIrsOybRuLATCYrPdAJPlJWuUlP0Kw468Y61g3oTeGr7PEoE3VER4ljUixqredK6rkmw/s200/100_5775.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 87px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 100px;" /></a></td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=113" target="_blank">Spanninga "Turning" bell (€3.09)</a><br />
<embed flashvars="audioUrl=http://hembrow.eu/sounds/turning.mp3" height="27" quality="best" src="http://www.hembrow.eu/audio-player.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="200"></embed></td><td>96 dBA</td></tr>
<tr><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=116" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540821009659000370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSm2Kk_0KruA9fSUd0luSuAqSWo0YdeUOiZY9Xn0N0rJC77gCas3wC0e_4C5aEreF5ORrGBBMQTCpzPQaq4t2sNMCzzubLbAbnMBBFs59olJ_EFBJcB3e4dKNMQkuTPwMHhse3-I9Vn04/s200/100_5776.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 85px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 100px;" /></a></td><td><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=116" target="_blank">Classic Brass bell (€5.83)</a><br />
<embed flashvars="audioUrl=http://hembrow.eu/sounds/classic.mp3" height="27" quality="best" src="http://www.hembrow.eu/audio-player.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="200"></embed></td><td>96 dBA</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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If you have space for it on your handlebars, the Widek Ding Dong bell gives the most sound. It's rather subjective, but to me it also gives by far the best sound of the bells. Just listen to that sustain. There are now cheaper copies available, many of which look very similar, but they do not have the same resonant sound. The Ping bell, which is smallest and weighs just 20 g, is best for those with limited handlebar space or who are concerned about weight. It's surprisingly loud, but note that because it has little sustain it's not really more effective than a traditional bell.<br />
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<b>Free Bells !</b><br />
We have a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=266" target="_blank">freely downloadable Android application</a> which includes all these bell sounds.<br />
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<b>How I tested and recorded the bells</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0znY7pSrXzfFh4cByXnRC4ZXRNbTCWSdhyphenhyphenoWsxbtBpYucgR9jK2Lx3Dd6X8r8M7fSnQt6V4ZX0P-P2Ll_y6W2wWy7-_66uGiygdhJdsgXBaHc6vO16eOvB6sikJ6IiuZWhBhX8LsYvcU/s1600/100_5771.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540820734793483042" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0znY7pSrXzfFh4cByXnRC4ZXRNbTCWSdhyphenhyphenoWsxbtBpYucgR9jK2Lx3Dd6X8r8M7fSnQt6V4ZX0P-P2Ll_y6W2wWy7-_66uGiygdhJdsgXBaHc6vO16eOvB6sikJ6IiuZWhBhX8LsYvcU/s400/100_5771.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 400px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 176px;" /></a>For the geeks amongst us, this is how it was done.<br />
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I used my old Radioshack sound-level meter to find out how loud the bells were. Each bell was held one metre from the SPL meter. These tests were all done in the same way, so they are directly comparable with one another. However, because this was done indoors and with reflective surfaces (the wall and table) nearby, you would get different figures if you measured out in the open. Each bell was rung a few times in succession, as you might if you thought you were about to collide with someone. I think it's reasonably representative of what you might do if you were really trying to get someone's attention. With a single ring, the slow rise-time of the analogue meter missed the peaks. As a result, this helped the ping bell result more than the others. A single "ping" doesn't really sound louder than some of the quieter bells. The loudest bell subjectively with a single ring was definitely the ding dong bell.<br />
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In any case, the peaks were quite a lot louder than the figures here. By the end of the test, it was not only the bells, but also my ears that were ringing.<br />
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A Sony <a href="http://www.hembrow.eu/personal/sonywmd6c.html" target="_blank">WMD6C</a> "pro" walkman was used to make the recordings. I'm not a big fan of Sony, but this was always a splendid product. I found the quietest room in the house, and used a long microphone lead so that I could be at the opposite end of the room from the recorder. I did in in this way for two reasons. First because I wanted to get away from the fan noise of the computer - the walkman is much quieter and easily portable - and secondly because I liked the idea of playing with the walkman again. It's a great piece of equipment which I now rarely use. Yes, an analogue recording on a cassette, but not any old cassette deck. The recordings give a pretty good idea of the sound of each bell, though reproducing the sound at a level anything like so loud as in real life is actually quite difficult to do.<br />
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<small><small><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5388564014174344904" name="geek"></a>I'm not going to pretend I don't care about technical issues, around cycling or anything else. I don't think it's cool not to know stuff. I'm proud to be a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geek" target="_blank">geek</a>...</small></small>
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="http://hembrow.eu/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-81734205341943729572010-10-25T05:45:00.001+02:002016-08-29T09:57:53.274+02:00Improving velomobile braking efficiencyMy <a href="http://hembrow.blogspot.com/search/label/sinner%20mango">Mango velomobile</a> has been a really wonderful thing to ride, but for one thing: the brakes. The Sturmey Archer drum brakes never seemed to quite have the stopping power required. An attempt to stop suddenly was met with a slightly too gradual deceleration and locking the wheels to skid was impossible.<br />
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Almost all velomobiles use these same brakes. The Alleweder, Go-One, Milan, Quest, Strada and WAW all also have the same brakes. So do many open recumbent trikes. It's been obvious to me for a while that there was a lot of variation in the performance of the brakes amongst different bikes fitted with these drum brakes. The problem was clearly not inherent in the Sturmey Archer drums themselves as at their best they work very well. I first assumed that the problem was variation in the brakes themselves, and tried changing them, but it made little if any difference. Other people reported improvements by changing the brake cable outers. As a result of this I took a close look at how the cables behaved on my Mango when I pulled the brake lever.<br />
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The brake cables on the Mango take the most direct route they could under the circumstances, but relative to the average upright bike it is still quite a circuitous route with a lot of relatively tight bends. The curvature of the cables changes quite noticeably when you pull on the brake lever, and that represents lost braking effort.<br />
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Also, these tight bends lead to more friction than normal between the inner and outer cables.<br />
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Together, these two things add up to an effect where the inner cable moves a greater distance at the brake lever than at the brake. Much of your effort in pulling on the lever goes into compressing the cable and overcoming friction rather than applying the brakes. They also mean that the springs in the brakes themselves are only just about strong enough to pull the cable back when you let go of the brake lever.<br />
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Potentially this could happen on any bike with any type of mechanical brakes, but because cable runs are typically less direct on recumbents than upright bikes, and less direct again on velomobiles vs. open recumbents, I suspect it is more frequently a problem on velomobiles, recumbent trikes and recumbent bikes than on uprights.<br />
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A couple of weeks ago I made a change to the brake cables on my Mango which significantly improved this situation. I can stop very quickly with my front wheels skidding. This is how it was achieved:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCiBPxUbqDP7fzV-WgtItDuvuWnC2yqUHU1j8JfF0pQq7-shvBR7HtcnZIKMeTeUGYhbDlZziEn1NbhBUo1tFmrZ_M0wjP8R7ZjqdSwZMr0WJdvkZzs_0HM5bBlxmRMbkrjN5K6Y-L748/s1600/100_5307.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529307800707782786" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCiBPxUbqDP7fzV-WgtItDuvuWnC2yqUHU1j8JfF0pQq7-shvBR7HtcnZIKMeTeUGYhbDlZziEn1NbhBUo1tFmrZ_M0wjP8R7ZjqdSwZMr0WJdvkZzs_0HM5bBlxmRMbkrjN5K6Y-L748/s400/100_5307.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 284px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>Good cables are the key to the transformation. I used <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=97" target="_blank">low compression outer cables</a> to solve the first problem, combined with <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=96" target="_blank">Teflon coated inner cables</a> for low friction.<br />
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Note that while gear shifter outer cable offers low compression it should never be used for brakes. It is constructed differently from brake cable and is not strong in compression. For this reason, it can fail under hard braking, resulting in little or no braking just when you need it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio5iF98sM77s-NkE5JoY7eM0AzcAi9cZMKClCFU5S8eEVA-2Php-ScmihW5HkM3Zo6IU4eP9Qg4BVAlyfl5ytcBiuGfYfHy865ZHFuIpRfeY3sLQFNDEo4nuN2kSdyqyCokCBx_2AlhFo/s1600/100_5293.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529307337573114450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio5iF98sM77s-NkE5JoY7eM0AzcAi9cZMKClCFU5S8eEVA-2Php-ScmihW5HkM3Zo6IU4eP9Qg4BVAlyfl5ytcBiuGfYfHy865ZHFuIpRfeY3sLQFNDEo4nuN2kSdyqyCokCBx_2AlhFo/s200/100_5293.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 115px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 160px;" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH1Env8fBSQj9uYg8k12MEdHX_Wupzcin4eF3aMLcMW7ulDW3xs0Wzb94t_jckiVQ2jvzihjxFP7l2dZPTiOpJDbSWwzuXSEi_0ftiypoRZU47Q5Xfw0msoeC4ix8s68EUb8gPnon5934/s1600/100_5297.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529307332115288226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH1Env8fBSQj9uYg8k12MEdHX_Wupzcin4eF3aMLcMW7ulDW3xs0Wzb94t_jckiVQ2jvzihjxFP7l2dZPTiOpJDbSWwzuXSEi_0ftiypoRZU47Q5Xfw0msoeC4ix8s68EUb8gPnon5934/s200/100_5297.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 126px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 160px;" /></a>A tip given to me by a colleague at the <a href="http://www.lfgg.nl/" target="_blank">Ligfietsgarage</a> a year ago was to remove the rough swarf on new brake cables so that they can rotate more easily within the brake levers. This reduces the chance of the brake cables breaking in the levers, as they often do.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrDr4Hq8c0vZ6-KHkkJ8SixDUbHCbz3whQxpFYPGmUSdYacUPu5Owo4ON741SciNNu-QAnpaQdSxTd1jaowms1d60LR4QgwedstbhcfsMSeUUeZP7uRyB1VvyckXLrl5iwdGcf-Rr9TPg/s1600/100_5299.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529307326706020754" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrDr4Hq8c0vZ6-KHkkJ8SixDUbHCbz3whQxpFYPGmUSdYacUPu5Owo4ON741SciNNu-QAnpaQdSxTd1jaowms1d60LR4QgwedstbhcfsMSeUUeZP7uRyB1VvyckXLrl5iwdGcf-Rr9TPg/s200/100_5299.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 123px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 160px;" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj53QHQnoaO9Rakook6ayXWzppGntFQgwe6inHF7yVQrVyMsc6cH3gkWotNbTGnPCH4iPq6HEFsldfUUQIjehgr_gPgF0jsVH31zN8u1aN7saqWc6yt-jLZwjREVVq_F00RB8qLwaxzVSY/s1600/100_5302.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529305654038274210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj53QHQnoaO9Rakook6ayXWzppGntFQgwe6inHF7yVQrVyMsc6cH3gkWotNbTGnPCH4iPq6HEFsldfUUQIjehgr_gPgF0jsVH31zN8u1aN7saqWc6yt-jLZwjREVVq_F00RB8qLwaxzVSY/s200/100_5302.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 133px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 160px;" /></a>Before and after use of the file.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbLV17bKamp2-dn7vV7c04jvhHb7z-7KYuZNOgiUKkhw3Bj2i3ItNRxN9q9BP3N7eY8L_XmGHmg8uQ8ER6z3FEoqN9mlc0T25sXe405ejuteiH9yf-6fdI3CfOIRg2wTVEYKZQ8hTEYTM/s1600/100_5300.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529307326148672626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbLV17bKamp2-dn7vV7c04jvhHb7z-7KYuZNOgiUKkhw3Bj2i3ItNRxN9q9BP3N7eY8L_XmGHmg8uQ8ER6z3FEoqN9mlc0T25sXe405ejuteiH9yf-6fdI3CfOIRg2wTVEYKZQ8hTEYTM/s200/100_5300.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 130px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 160px;" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHaaHLWg_ufihlE_COd8uDf4X_ySz8r_z3628l39nz7GMNdK13ozVyfUtSQTw7-zNOb6ks6Ec5OcieyOWU0kDRZvGOAkA_0t1w0gOZsppP4BDwziRu7MF_-7x9SKeQ3RjNvPOOYEVZBEQ/s1600/100_5301.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529305655246405538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHaaHLWg_ufihlE_COd8uDf4X_ySz8r_z3628l39nz7GMNdK13ozVyfUtSQTw7-zNOb6ks6Ec5OcieyOWU0kDRZvGOAkA_0t1w0gOZsppP4BDwziRu7MF_-7x9SKeQ3RjNvPOOYEVZBEQ/s200/100_5301.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 125px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 160px;" /></a>And the other side...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVH8EM1YbdlPqWzg0P-L13h1XuTXFesUUSoRx5XOvLrhqurhC1SBODFKG6bYLuvuHMXaQV2HvwzP7NYFmA_xS2V4GvRINyVxfJR1Y4rHPP1ddtUHZqB7lbA12c94cbT6ZFhPMLpk-X07Q/s1600/100_5303.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529305640269067394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVH8EM1YbdlPqWzg0P-L13h1XuTXFesUUSoRx5XOvLrhqurhC1SBODFKG6bYLuvuHMXaQV2HvwzP7NYFmA_xS2V4GvRINyVxfJR1Y4rHPP1ddtUHZqB7lbA12c94cbT6ZFhPMLpk-X07Q/s200/100_5303.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 125px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 160px;" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO3GLkYzaFvky02GucqGVXmV_T2Z39GvtN4cWlHwKj8XAMYCt14A2unj19F4bhTI-fUt7mNBqPYTdZRRpaDToylzESdAe5pTK-fH7KZlXiVog-AgtJS99zgd1q2JyeO6EcoaI-03Z7dFs/s1600/100_5304.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529304551147893666" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO3GLkYzaFvky02GucqGVXmV_T2Z39GvtN4cWlHwKj8XAMYCt14A2unj19F4bhTI-fUt7mNBqPYTdZRRpaDToylzESdAe5pTK-fH7KZlXiVog-AgtJS99zgd1q2JyeO6EcoaI-03Z7dFs/s200/100_5304.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 160px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 120px;" /></a>The wheels are removed with a 5 mm Allen key, giving access to the brake mechanisms. It is a good idea to lubricate the pivots in the mechanisms, but make sure that no oil or grease gets onto the braking surfaces as this will drastically reduce the power of your brakes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0DFqt-C-lUsREJt3U_J66PIzXi5L_JVtxeeSitDsgyoDXVe9WYJDDIOgQ9tF8E6aSwIIMoNImhx90PactGFkO9Y-17MAqdYg8ZXG-jEJCyZ-ksxfAomjq3cuqxTTTd6GnS60pOzZDHo/s1600/100_5313.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529305645672121490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0DFqt-C-lUsREJt3U_J66PIzXi5L_JVtxeeSitDsgyoDXVe9WYJDDIOgQ9tF8E6aSwIIMoNImhx90PactGFkO9Y-17MAqdYg8ZXG-jEJCyZ-ksxfAomjq3cuqxTTTd6GnS60pOzZDHo/s200/100_5313.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 156px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 160px;" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUHqU2lHhUUldFr3Qma36UI9MV3vHkWb9S8WCxJwc5KqCbf1w8hyphenhyphenup5N6hHbwWrwIWJb8DpRhxRqB0EZXjOmkgkTGFvTzesITqIdJa7zFaiSfhmJegtI-ZMzfaCZwa_hPFin9QtD292MI/s1600/100_5306.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529305636449241170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUHqU2lHhUUldFr3Qma36UI9MV3vHkWb9S8WCxJwc5KqCbf1w8hyphenhyphenup5N6hHbwWrwIWJb8DpRhxRqB0EZXjOmkgkTGFvTzesITqIdJa7zFaiSfhmJegtI-ZMzfaCZwa_hPFin9QtD292MI/s200/100_5306.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 115px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 160px;" /></a>Low compressibility outer cable, with a low friction liner. To make a good job of cutting this you need <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=78" target="_blank">the proper tool</a>. For the Mango or Quest, the new outer cable needs to be 1.03 m in length.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsntry3h5MDjKHD26rzEsYe_lwr7FQHAdlVmix5Qq1FaYjgK4T3hjOCK5s-pw2DzI83U0NSQZkbdoRufdBJFLknYsTocbydH1cQGN4B8awTXO0BZKVehKkyES9eJVg_8s7vYXirYYcdTM/s1600/100_5308.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529304547634809954" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsntry3h5MDjKHD26rzEsYe_lwr7FQHAdlVmix5Qq1FaYjgK4T3hjOCK5s-pw2DzI83U0NSQZkbdoRufdBJFLknYsTocbydH1cQGN4B8awTXO0BZKVehKkyES9eJVg_8s7vYXirYYcdTM/s200/100_5308.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 160px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 150px;" /></a>The easiest way of making sure that the new outer cable takes the same route as the old, including through the hard to reach parts under the bridge, is to use the old inner cable as a guide.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpJQYeucqK5iTfji-iyqPP23xj60F6YSoewnt3NXSG5sGO9oQzaqJPRE5tE7hz5PTxp2j4ruUais0saxZ2rYYDzCuaLd3HQbHvc7Pawg-d_8PvuVLTP9dKxU6qTKfjD_8kXnEWUt73Arw/s1600/100_5309.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529304540196786114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpJQYeucqK5iTfji-iyqPP23xj60F6YSoewnt3NXSG5sGO9oQzaqJPRE5tE7hz5PTxp2j4ruUais0saxZ2rYYDzCuaLd3HQbHvc7Pawg-d_8PvuVLTP9dKxU6qTKfjD_8kXnEWUt73Arw/s200/100_5309.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 120px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 160px;" /></a>I used a little white grease on the adjusters for the brakes, and also an additional nut to fit against the brake lever for additional rigidity at the lever end. These adjustments should be screwed all the way in. The wheels should then be re-fitted and the brakes adjusted so that they are just free when the brake lever is not pulled. This means that later adjustments can be made, even while riding, if the brake performance drops a little in the first few km after fitting the new cables.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSBYV78F43Osikyzp9lXu9bVd1VvEgnp338UBmVSO_QhsuNjL083KSg97-0hR1eVI0PCJDOE8iY9dEo_kcWYItQe6MxdD-jLf2W6Kp4TdX-TxE3V_9mB-ydqG8eWZYmy_7sYl0clw-CY4/s1600/100_5312.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529304539364402626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSBYV78F43Osikyzp9lXu9bVd1VvEgnp338UBmVSO_QhsuNjL083KSg97-0hR1eVI0PCJDOE8iY9dEo_kcWYItQe6MxdD-jLf2W6Kp4TdX-TxE3V_9mB-ydqG8eWZYmy_7sYl0clw-CY4/s200/100_5312.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 160px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 112px;" /></a>Finally, refit tyres (in this case I have fitted <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=71" target="_blank">Schwalbe Marathons</a> ready for winter) and pump the tyres up to pressure (the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=64" target="_blank">Schwalbe pressure gauge</a> gives an accurate reading of the pressure in your tyres).<br />
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Afterwards, it is much easier to pull on the brake lever, with much less obvious friction, the brake lever returns much quicker to being fully "off" when I release it, and the braking is very much improved. I can now lock the front wheels and skid to a halt, stopping in a much shorter distance than I could stop previously. This removes a slight doubt I had with the Mango over whether I would stop in an emergency situation. Here's the evidence:<br />
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A slow motion view of the skid. Note how in every frame the label on the tyre is in the same place:<br />
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The total list of parts that you need for doing this job is as follows:<br />
<ul>
<li>Two lengths of <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=97" target="_blank">brake cable outer</a> (1.03 m each for Mango or Quest)</li>
<li>Two Teflon coated <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=96" target="_blank">inner cables</a> (1700 mm version)</li>
<li>Four <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=99" target="_blank">ferrules</a>.</li>
</ul>
All the parts can be bought individually in our webshop, or we can send you <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=100" target="_blank">a kit of the parts you need</a> with the brake outer cable already cut to the correct length, at a slightly lower price than buying the parts individually.<br />
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Total cost for a Mango or Quest (1.03 m outer cables) is €16.50 + postage (+ 19% tax if you live within the EU). If you've a different bike/trike/velomobile with weak brakes, please check what lengths of cable you require and let me know. I'll add them to the menu.
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="http://hembrow.eu/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5388564014174344904.post-78869923133786133112009-01-21T09:01:00.000+01:002016-08-29T09:57:59.819+02:00Anatomy of a reliable, everyday bicycle<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMR4NRla8q6_qyoTJE4gyl-FTGB3-v4rBLJop_Hy-5EmrQQKjYIF76QUfkr9TpIKKskSZVyBFYx3fivSro487_dWFQyq_HWHBm6tLF6R5JTJW5bVBzDn86pI7pc2zpDrhlYI25OG62Gzg/s1600-h/DSCF9478.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276594416479019234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMR4NRla8q6_qyoTJE4gyl-FTGB3-v4rBLJop_Hy-5EmrQQKjYIF76QUfkr9TpIKKskSZVyBFYx3fivSro487_dWFQyq_HWHBm6tLF6R5JTJW5bVBzDn86pI7pc2zpDrhlYI25OG62Gzg/s320/DSCF9478.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 213px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 320px;" /></a>A few days ago someone who had watched my video of the <a href="http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2008/09/rush-hour.html" target="_blank">rush hour</a> in Assen asked me why there were so many similar looking bikes and so few had derailleur gears. This post is an attempt to explain.
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This bike belongs to my wife, Judy. I am sure that some people looking at this picture will think it looks like an "old fashioned" bicycle. It's not. It's just a very practical bicycle. The result of many years of evolution of bicycle design for everyday use.
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These bicycles are not an anachronism. They are an enabling technology for mass cycling. If you want the entire population to cycle, then this is the sort of bike they need to do it on. This bike has covered thousands of kilometres since we bought it (second hand), but apart from a little splashed mud it is spotless. It keeps itself clean and in good condition, despite no maintenance at all.
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I'll explain some of the details of the design below.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIfGZ6g8c2DnDx_JlHSgnVxb-pO7HNOY0Ka_k2KVlRW2yBu-x5pMPGDAQVBqqnYuoCO_xVyB98B9XzSSBEfglmU7SYadOK4iT04AXkeJ3go1przAWK3bddTMQV4sQgomvXnl7wJCO2ZLk/s1600-h/DSCF9483.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276598593161102466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIfGZ6g8c2DnDx_JlHSgnVxb-pO7HNOY0Ka_k2KVlRW2yBu-x5pMPGDAQVBqqnYuoCO_xVyB98B9XzSSBEfglmU7SYadOK4iT04AXkeJ3go1przAWK3bddTMQV4sQgomvXnl7wJCO2ZLk/s200/DSCF9483.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 80px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 200px;" /></a>The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=37" target="_blank">handlebars</a> are relatively high and shaped like this because this leads to a very comfortable ride. This shape is also better suited than dropped or straight handlebars for attaching a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=62" target="">basket</a>. Judy's baskets were made in 2004 for her previous bike but they are still good. A <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=49" target="_blank">bicycle bell</a> is fitted. It's a legal requirement in the Netherlands, and also just a very good idea.
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<a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=43&product_id=75" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276598581011094002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgraDOcLn0OrIhhis2bkrSHmJIIvQadKlrVnVdMO5NhyphenhyphenNg_9nRwAbgL9rE8kIotf5VXsEoFKyLZ33lVWcJhIokqPRIo7JXeumtZEqEPJpafcJ87mygToM-eDN0PdDsjtACauHWTLFlmKCA/s200/DSCF9479.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 60px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 200px;" /></a><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=43&product_id=75" target="_blank">Chain case</a>. This keeps your clothes clean, and makes it practical to ride in normal clothing. It also keeps the chain spotless, so that less maintenance is required. Chains last for many years when fully enclosed. Riders of bikes like this don't have to clean their chain after riding.
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A full chain case like this is required to get these benefits. I have just a "hockey stick" shaped chain guard on my older <a href="http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2008/09/4001-utility-cycling-odyssey.html" target="_blank">English 3 speed</a>. This does not fully protect the chain so I have required a new chain this year and have also had to clean and re-lube the chain. However, a hockey stick style chain case does protect trousers and <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=48" target="_blank">can be retrofitted</a> to other bikes.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTRVDakuoOhBwes4_r9GTgQrHpKdnkzPRB8zip3uypspEku6Ps-eA_9zepqAAaxcbXTaSZ_YEDj6xWTv7fQ3I6HNE4Xt2x34zlAzNzazzTdV6c0DZMfv40crLqlzfD_4QgXVvidbu-vDY/s1600-h/DSCF9482.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276598586016799122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTRVDakuoOhBwes4_r9GTgQrHpKdnkzPRB8zip3uypspEku6Ps-eA_9zepqAAaxcbXTaSZ_YEDj6xWTv7fQ3I6HNE4Xt2x34zlAzNzazzTdV6c0DZMfv40crLqlzfD_4QgXVvidbu-vDY/s200/DSCF9482.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 200px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 144px;" /></a>The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40&product_id=105" target="_blank">front light</a> and <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=48&product_id=65" target="_blank">dynamo</a> (generator). Having lights permanently attached to your bike in this way is far more convenient than having to remove them when you park the bike. Having a dynamo to run the lights means that they are always available. Also see our blog post about <a href="http://blog.dutchbikebits.com/2012/01/selecting-and-installing-dynamo.html">selecting and installing dynamo lighting systems</a>.<br />
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Batteries go flat - especially if lights are left on. Removable lights can be removed by other people when you park your bike.
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<a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=3102538965694240940&postID=1667575960656229367" name="lock"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXtI6w4NbDEhagv8OmS0jQSwmnyU4k_3JRAG39GjDq5s-rtJfWomg1fTqRsNHh55I16L0ZNrkDwi76WcrYCzO-3EqLLEMilZHr8xuRBVuGZNjlprXt3-xYv0LoIFWM-npvC6nEegrXjRk/s1600-h/DSCF9481.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276598585658788466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXtI6w4NbDEhagv8OmS0jQSwmnyU4k_3JRAG39GjDq5s-rtJfWomg1fTqRsNHh55I16L0ZNrkDwi76WcrYCzO-3EqLLEMilZHr8xuRBVuGZNjlprXt3-xYv0LoIFWM-npvC6nEegrXjRk/s200/DSCF9481.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 183px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 200px;" /></a>The rear wheel lock and the <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=76" target="_blank">skirt guard</a>.
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The lock on its own offers enough security for leaving your bike for a short period of time while shopping. <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=49" target="_blank">Good quality locks of this type</a> are very secure, and also can be used with a chain where more security is needed. The <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=76" target="_blank">skirt guard</a> keeps your clothes clean while you cycle, and make riding in normal clothing viable.
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Note also the mudguards (fenders). These are steel and made to last. <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=48&product_id=74" target="_blank">Thermoplastic mudguards</a> also work well, and can be retrofitted to other bikes, but they're not so durable as steel and can crack after a few years use. The mudguards on this bike are adequately long at the front to prevent excess spray on your feet. With shorter mudguards, a <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=43_65" target="_blank">mud-flap</a> is very helpful to prevent spray. Note that this bike has a mud-flap at the rear, on what is really too short a mudguard to be entirely successful (even with practical Dutch bikes there is an element of style over substance).
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGPhtN7j6yALQW-cVfEQRsjqCfwR_TFQVX_KcRtqCxugl6RVFa1jbtJms1aujR9MoeJcrSwQIhEtng1-jqf_soZMAQJNAjlaYrBw-04YSG5Tzgs-7UsdvJuQRGrWT7Elc-TL2QQl4QUsI/s1600-h/DSCF9484.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276598733826520594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGPhtN7j6yALQW-cVfEQRsjqCfwR_TFQVX_KcRtqCxugl6RVFa1jbtJms1aujR9MoeJcrSwQIhEtng1-jqf_soZMAQJNAjlaYrBw-04YSG5Tzgs-7UsdvJuQRGrWT7Elc-TL2QQl4QUsI/s200/DSCF9484.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 200px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 183px;" /></a>This is the rear hub. This incorporates both the three gears on the bike and the rear brake, operated by a lever on the handlebars.
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Enclosing the brake and gears leads to extremely high reliability. Neither the gears nor the brakes have required any maintenance, unlike my bike which has rim brakes and has required new brake pads. Not only rim brakes, but disc brakes also are not really low maintenance components. When used in winter, salt on the road causes the disc to rust, and brake pads need replacing fairly regularly. Drum brakes, or Shimano's roller brakes, are much more reliable than this.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjva7ctKwL2rjRp_SpROF-QyfZ1gHqwGc3_LGUd2UUH_i1bqvP3i9kbcokMRzUS6MYpEp-Ec3SPx7ZBdJ1iAvacHeM6Pn40EEqeqgv715fZ5hRWWYdMMKGEMC5j365fYt6bXa2TBAmeVeQ/s1600-h/DSCF9480.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276598578518363234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjva7ctKwL2rjRp_SpROF-QyfZ1gHqwGc3_LGUd2UUH_i1bqvP3i9kbcokMRzUS6MYpEp-Ec3SPx7ZBdJ1iAvacHeM6Pn40EEqeqgv715fZ5hRWWYdMMKGEMC5j365fYt6bXa2TBAmeVeQ/s200/DSCF9480.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 168px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 200px;" /></a>Front wheel hub. The front brake is built into the wheel hub, and operated by the handle on the handlebars. Again, this type of brake is extremely reliable. No adjustment has been required at all in the time we've owned the bike.
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Some other features of the bike, all directed towards reliability and convenience, are:
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<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=48&product_id=110" target="_blank">Sturdy steel luggage rack</a>. It's much more pleasant to carry luggage on a rack than in a rucksack. Let the bike do the work. If it's sturdy enough, as this one is, then it can also be used to <a href="http://hembrow.blogspot.com/search/label/passengeronrack">carry friends</a>.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=62" target="_blank">Puncture proof tyres</a>.</li>
<li>Reflective sidewalls.</li>
<li>Thicker spokes for stronger wheels.</li>
<li>Chrome plated stainless steel rims - which look beautiful and last forever (a good idea with hub brakes as fitted on this bike, not a good idea on a bike with with rim brakes)
</li>
<li>A paint finish designed to last 20 years of use outdoors.
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<li>A <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=46" target="_blank">kick stand</a>. That's why the bike can stand up on its own, with no support.
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<li>On an upright bicycle, <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=70" target="_blank">a wider saddle is needed</a> than on a sports bicycle. <a href="http://blog.dutchbikebits.com/2012/10/upright-and-comfortable-choosing-saddle.html">Read about saddles in another blog post</a>.</li>
</ol>
This bicycle was made by <a href="http://azor.nl/" target="_blank">Azor</a> in a factory just 40 km south of where we live. I took a video in the factory earlier this year, which features in a post about a visit to a <a href="http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2008/09/visit-to-bike-shop.html" target="_blank">bike shop</a> which I made earlier this year.
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I also went out and took a few photos of other bikes parked around the city. You'll see that the majority incorporate the same features as seen above:
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioiGWvOryuvGuZJ_EegciUxNTNaSlEINy-5lytqiN9wuHl5JRBJWOphzXK5rNprG_JFnopmRuKwxpJRUHF8XfgS-0lKkDUVWwVTvsf4YriA49g87o2hDXI8AehV7BJQKHbTHjuA2VIND0/s1600-h/DSCF9459.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276610761009991282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioiGWvOryuvGuZJ_EegciUxNTNaSlEINy-5lytqiN9wuHl5JRBJWOphzXK5rNprG_JFnopmRuKwxpJRUHF8XfgS-0lKkDUVWwVTvsf4YriA49g87o2hDXI8AehV7BJQKHbTHjuA2VIND0/s200/DSCF9459.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 154px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 200px;" /></a>Two interesting bikes. The pink one is a child's bike made just as practical as an adults bike with all the features discussed above. This is needed as virtually all children use their bikes daily to <a href="http://hembrow.blogspot.com/search/label/school%20travel">get to school</a>. The other bike to its right has a low step over frame, which is useful for people with limited ability to lift their legs. e.g. older people, or people with disabilities.
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The bike to the left of the child's bike has a fold down child seat on the back.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsmYXAAzU8V11G23W3R9B9FWsaGpftHvGhM8BnXqpywPVy-Rr9MvH1xPSnRJStZSIQBmRqKV145BV76R5wzj_jc_Eb1qsxTh96qqsIqzLN6UvtJFz5C7fojaMcSSzJkxqUV1uCIn4Cyc8/s1600-h/DSCF9461.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276613815105884354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsmYXAAzU8V11G23W3R9B9FWsaGpftHvGhM8BnXqpywPVy-Rr9MvH1xPSnRJStZSIQBmRqKV145BV76R5wzj_jc_Eb1qsxTh96qqsIqzLN6UvtJFz5C7fojaMcSSzJkxqUV1uCIn4Cyc8/s200/DSCF9461.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 187px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 200px;" /></a>Two bikes fitted with <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=79" target="_blank">front child seats and windscreens</a> for the children. These are very common, as otherwise children sitting in front of their parents can get quite cold when being transported by bicycle in winter.
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You can buy bicycles (moederfietsen) built specifically to carry two children, one in front and one behind. They come as standard fitted with both child seats and with a windshield like this.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq5Sztc9fbqwuKN4M13Tzmfz4Ky3lDdHo7LqIYdxsG2Y74LZ5Ev_Y6QypiSAkoealaW9KFlowOqnw2iRmfvqLOwTJ7SZC4N8I_VbwAv_R5R6u_-bBVL4H61o0Lmtwj77KZRelPhGCgx1k/s1600-h/DSCF9472.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276611115038028962" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq5Sztc9fbqwuKN4M13Tzmfz4Ky3lDdHo7LqIYdxsG2Y74LZ5Ev_Y6QypiSAkoealaW9KFlowOqnw2iRmfvqLOwTJ7SZC4N8I_VbwAv_R5R6u_-bBVL4H61o0Lmtwj77KZRelPhGCgx1k/s200/DSCF9472.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 174px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 200px;" /></a>One of the other ways that people use to carry small children is in bike trailers. This bike also has a seat mounted behind the handlebars, but no wind-shield.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIrhbBz2BxiQoLGm-2FlqxIS0KL_KJfQ1iHBvb2bxzKZkKM1wzz3siTGZub35BGcWDu7f3ZMcWKw2Cw3w4iLF_nuoxinU6aTctzlqLEk8iS6iyk1U4uNY0tVa72o0jHL1aKmQo2PxXnRc/s1600-h/DSCF9475.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276611108616461810" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIrhbBz2BxiQoLGm-2FlqxIS0KL_KJfQ1iHBvb2bxzKZkKM1wzz3siTGZub35BGcWDu7f3ZMcWKw2Cw3w4iLF_nuoxinU6aTctzlqLEk8iS6iyk1U4uNY0tVa72o0jHL1aKmQo2PxXnRc/s200/DSCF9475.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 200px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 130px;" /></a>This bike is fitted with a "springer" for <a href="http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2008/10/never-mind-credit-crunch-walk-dog.html">walking a dog</a> while you cycle. Most people simply hold the dog's lead, which with a well trained dog works perfectly well. It is legal in this country to walk one dog while you cycle (but not two or more dogs).
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIbS97Vn6arCq6ZLsuIv3cBDbqxBn23-NqiMi31DZd8z1AlKpkJteQNDsnj4lDmQ_pYWoZQurzFhdWL8Rtvd_YB__6sBeagLcwuh51wyNr3pWIRhc93ptnIDdz6ZMSxPteU5q58aZP3m0/s1600-h/DSCF9469.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276610778900181794" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIbS97Vn6arCq6ZLsuIv3cBDbqxBn23-NqiMi31DZd8z1AlKpkJteQNDsnj4lDmQ_pYWoZQurzFhdWL8Rtvd_YB__6sBeagLcwuh51wyNr3pWIRhc93ptnIDdz6ZMSxPteU5q58aZP3m0/s200/DSCF9469.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 163px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 200px;" /></a>An extra tall frame bike (the Dutch are now the tallest race in the world) and a bike with a serial number pressed into the frame in a very obvious way - an anti-theft idea that some manufacturers are using, and which makes it very difficult to disguise the serial number of a bicycle.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnEfrB9SZPMLfWBIXN-LNteKSg5tM-tNQRvrdUY-AOYW7cMl6mdMZAn_cz9Q1BPgvZfrCdu9NY5PG-4Q7aOTdIni4qDtZOsgwMrvpxBYLKnV_dSmW2sy-jVQIIM-R9v1_vUePMhq4Qzrw/s1600-h/DSCF9466.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276610767275135970" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnEfrB9SZPMLfWBIXN-LNteKSg5tM-tNQRvrdUY-AOYW7cMl6mdMZAn_cz9Q1BPgvZfrCdu9NY5PG-4Q7aOTdIni4qDtZOsgwMrvpxBYLKnV_dSmW2sy-jVQIIM-R9v1_vUePMhq4Qzrw/s200/DSCF9466.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: right; height: 151px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 200px;" /></a>Bike fitted with a sturdy front rack. These are quite commonly used and work extremely well for carrying large and heavy items. Again an enabling technology to allow people to make journeys by bike for which they might otherwise have used a car. They fit most bikes and you can <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=38" target="_blank">buy them here</a>.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_3p3WY1rtNcV8bjFGEhjYGeExG4aY-DSRLZiynkLVi6VgX5qP4N6rZ2yu70Eo4fHB7bdhMqbifmiaVf9nJ8V0sEZ9XsBYU0ssUtvw4AHbp9wjKchIsvVzaTKKs8UJg77nz9gIykvSmUk/s1600-h/DSCF9460.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276610760507014994" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_3p3WY1rtNcV8bjFGEhjYGeExG4aY-DSRLZiynkLVi6VgX5qP4N6rZ2yu70Eo4fHB7bdhMqbifmiaVf9nJ8V0sEZ9XsBYU0ssUtvw4AHbp9wjKchIsvVzaTKKs8UJg77nz9gIykvSmUk/s200/DSCF9460.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 200px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 192px;" /></a>A traditional looking bike, but actually new. This design is very popular, especially amongst the young.<br />
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As with many of the other bikes shown, this has just a back pedal (coaster) brake. It is legal to have just the back pedal brake here, and it's a common arrangement. Coaster brakes are very reliable, so again this is useful for an everyday bike.
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Finally a view of someone getting on with using their bike in the centre of Assen, as people do everyday...
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVpgjOB8sJzkshkwtDWHDm-3SMrq-TBhzZ73wtsWcHX29C0IA9P2kA07rnz3odpu9w2V_MOj83cfGSxHqGR00oOq6dAye9Ytn-d_rMfhH9jww64VXS1VHaMOAD-fH6or5lTLZ66iobrtmU/s1600/DSCF9463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVpgjOB8sJzkshkwtDWHDm-3SMrq-TBhzZ73wtsWcHX29C0IA9P2kA07rnz3odpu9w2V_MOj83cfGSxHqGR00oOq6dAye9Ytn-d_rMfhH9jww64VXS1VHaMOAD-fH6or5lTLZ66iobrtmU/s400/DSCF9463.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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If you have an existing bike with fewer of these practical components, it is possible to convert it. This website provides <a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=48">components for conversion of mountain bikes or road bikes</a>.<br />
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<small><small>We use similar bikes for our <a href="http://www.hembrowcyclingholidays.com/" target="_blank">cycling holiday</a> customers.</small></small>
<br><center><a href="http://www.dutchbikebits.com"><img src="http://hembrow.eu/dbbdbb640.png" style="border: 0px;"></a></center>David Hembrowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14543024940730663645noreply@blogger.com0